• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR-3A Choke Cable

Share this page

angelfj1

angelfj1

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
OK Guys. How do I get this broken inner cable off and a new one on? It appears to be soldered and crimped, but I'm not sure.

DSC01401-r1.jpg
 
Frank - get a whole new assembly from TRF. Cable, pull, and knob. Believe me, it's worth it.

Tom
 
What I have done in the past is heat it up and pull it out. Then, I went to a guitar store and purchased the appropriate guitar string and soldered that in.

Steve
 
I'm sure that the price for a new one is cheaper and faster. Make sure you keep your original choke knob. The repro knobs tell you to "PULL CHOKE" whereas the original tells you "CHOKE".
 

Attachments

  • 10178.jpg
    10178.jpg
    47.2 KB · Views: 238
  • 10179.jpg
    10179.jpg
    54.2 KB · Views: 242
I would have never thought of the guitar string idea thats great!!!
 
go to a bicycle store the have lots of cables and different thickness cables and you can buy just the cable and not the black outer housing unless you need it, thats where I got my choke cable, like said heat it up and pull it out, if you have a oxy acet torch then braze in the new one
 
Inner choke cable are all stranded. Least the three that I have are.

Tinkerman
 
For the choke cable to last a lot longer, only one carbie needs to be hooked up to get the car started. I remove the (choke) link rod to the rear carbie, and just choke the front carbie.

Then, with only half the return spring pressure, you don't have to put your foot up on the dash to pull the choke cable, and it's a lot easier to half twist lock it on until the engine warms up.

No need to carry a peg to put behind the choke knob to keep it out, or sit a small coin on the flat between the choke knob and the dash, as we did as kids in our TR2's until we figured out a few short cuts.

Regards,

Viv.
 
I second the bike shift cable as a replacement, also setting it up for the front carb only. If you're really good at brazing, OK,but soldering works fine. After you get the old cable out, drill out the hole to the same size as the new cable so you can get an easy insert.Cut your bike cable to correct length & tin that end so it won't unravel.
FRank
 
vivdownunder said:
That's something new...fixing a TR with a G string !!

Viv.
Click to expand...

Yes G string for repairs.....the "F" string will appear outa nowhere while making the repair :jester:
 
vivdownunder said:
Then, with only half the return spring pressure, you don't have to put your foot up on the dash to pull the choke cable,
Click to expand...
IMO, if it's that stiff with both chokes hooked up, there is something else wrong. I pulled the same cable every day for almost 20 years, still worked fine. I grip the knob between index & middle finger, then prop my thumb on the dash. Then a twist of the wrist pulls the choke out, and another locks it.

I've found that it's common for people to try stretching the spring between the jet glands, which makes the choke hard to operate (and also gives the jets a tendency to stick down, causing overly rich mixture even with the knob all the way in). Then some will shorten the return spring, to get the jet to come up, which makes the choke even stiffer.

Also worth noting that all those pivots in the choke linkage are supposed to be loosy-goosy. Substituting bolts for the pins, and pulling them up tight, is a mistake.

Pressing on the throttle while pulling the choke will also make it a bit easier.

Oh yeah, the jets are supposed to be smooth and shiny. Many aftermarket jets aren't smooth, and need to be polished before installation.
 
Back
Top