TR 3 New Water Pump Problem

[Tinkerman]

I just dug out my new (bought on ebay) water pump and discovered that the impeller sticks out about 5/32". I tried it on the engine and it hits the back of the housing. Did I buy a fishing anchor or is there some way to fix the problem?
I will say this, it is new but hardly useable at the moment.

Wot to do, Wot to do?

Tinkerman

 

[martx-5]

If it's an original style pump that has seperate shaft and bearings, then the pump may be OK. The shaft may have slid back some in the bearings, causing the pressed on impeller to move. What I would do is mount the pulley and tighten down the nut and see if everything pulls together. Don't forget the captured bolt. BTW, that impeller is too high. It should be very close to the housing.

EDIT: I just looked at the breakdown of the waterpump in the shop manual, and there is a circlip that will prevent the shaft from moving too far forward (toward the pulley), but NOT backward. The pulley itself does that. Therefore, what I said earlier should apply.

Of course, instead of putting on the pulley, you could just press down on the shaft and impeller and it should seat on the circlip. It shouldn't take much force. A small arbor press or a rap with a BFH... :laugh:

 

[tomshobby]

This article has reference to setting the impellor and the importance of the gasket.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/tikiwiki/tiki-index.php?page=Water+Pump+Part+3+assembly

 

[martx-5]

That article is very good, but applies to pumps that have an integral shaft and bearing assembly. The original TRactor pumps have a seperate shaft and two ball bearings. The shaft on the integral type cannot move without moving the bearing assembly with it.

I feel that in this case the shaft has shifted back in the two ball bearings taking the impeller with it. It should be able to be reset by either pressing the shaft/impeller back down or using the pulley to suck it into position.

This is all predicatied on the ebay pump being an original. If it is, the end of the shaft where the pulley goes will be threaded. I can't see that in the picture that was posted.

 

[Tinkerman]

yep, it is threaded on the end and has the grease fitting. The big hammer theory worked fine. I still have some tinkering to do, but that's why I'm.....TINKERMAN, heh.

Thanks for your help Art.

 

[Don Elliott]

Art - When you see a brass or bronze impeller, it's very probable that it's an "original" pump. For quite a long time, the repro impellers were made of cast iron (as mine was when I bought a new repro pump in 1988) and the cast iron impellers were about 1/8" small on the OD, so I replaced this with my original impeller.

 

[tomshobby]

Hi Art, I understand about the different shafts, but the part of calculating the impellor position still applies.

 

[martx-5]

Art - When you see a brass or bronze impeller, it's very probable that it's an "original" pump.

Good point Don. I should've picked up on that.