• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR 3/4/6 -try to talk me out of this: [suspension]

Share this page

This has been a good discussion. I usually read the posts and don't comment to much. I'm new to TR's and I've learned quite a bit from here. I bought the equipment and learned wheel alignment because I couldn't find anyone to properly set up cars I'd send out from my shop. It's helped me do a better job on frames and unibodies. I'm no racer but I do try to get to the Glen for the vintage races when I can. Good luck maybe I'll see you there next year.
 
John-

I'd like to come-up for Giant's Despair some time and also go drive the remnants of the Brynfan Tydynn course near Harvey's Lake...maybe swing up and see the viaduct in Nicholson too.

Hopefully, I'll have the TR out on the road by Fall driving season '12.

I also found this discussion helpful as I've been able to disspell some myths about "how much" modding is really needed to cure bump steer. Mind you that a lot of folks these days are running radials on these old cars that have suspensions that were supposed to work with the tires (which were bias ply). I am intending to run bias plys - I actually like the sliding effect in Autocross!

wes
 
Wes,
I just finished installing the adjustable control arms on my TR6 this evening. I've only driven it 3 miles with no twisty turnies, so I can't comment on the handling. They have done a great job of fixing the negative camber issue I've been struggling with for years.
If you lower your 4, you will probably have to look into a set.
 
Hi Jerry, I ran each heim joint out to 3/4" thread exposed or roughly 11 threads. For camber, we just got a rough estimate so far by using a large square and measured the distance at the top of the tire from the left or right of the bottom bulge. Bruce uses 1/8" increments as a guide for degrees. I'm currently at 1 1/2 and 2 degrees. We're going to try a longer set that should allow me to dial it in to spec.
As for toe, my car doesn't fit on the alignment machines. After repairing the TR3 from the broken vertical link many years ago, my alignment was dangerously off. Pulling into the garage after the short test drive, I drove over a piece of plastic(a half sheet of office chair carpet runner) and found that it twisted as the tire rolled over it. I adjusted the toe until it quit twisting. The alignment shop found the front end to be in spec. Did the same with the TR6 and it tracks very straight.
 
Doug-

That's ingenious about the carpet runner - took me a minute to figure what you were talking about - then when it hit me...aha! pretty cool.

Just so I am understanding your set-up here (on the tr6); you went with slotted (adjustable) upper control arms and ALSO went with the heim joints on the steering tie rods...correct?

however, now as I re-read what I just wrote above, I'll re-ask the question: did you go with slotted/adj control arms and a heim joint at the end of those (in replacement of the square upper ball joint typically at the end of the normal control arms?

or...I should just come over one night and check it out. can we do tech session?!?!

(i've recently been fixated on heim joints for the steering tie-rods and keep thinking about those as well).

-wes
 
This set up uses the original controls arm that are cut short eliminating the fulcrum pin ends. Coupling are welded onto the cut ends of the arms for fitment of the heim joints that mount onto the fulcrum pins. The stock ball joints are used.
I coated the fulcrum pins with a high tack grease, and am going to use a dry moly lube on the heim joints to minimize the dirt sticking to them.
I'll be happy to show them to you.
 
a couple years back I purchased an extra set of control arms on accident - so at least I have the parts in reserve. i have seen photos of your exact set up - sounds cool.

i'll probably run as is for awhile to see what the results are like and then consider both the upper heim as you've done as well as heims on the tie rod ends as well. let's see - there is also some logic out there that says a little negative camber helps with initial bite/turn in.
 
Back
Top