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Towards better brake performance....

gonzo

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Rob, Summit Racing sells the EBC Green Stuff 2000 series front pads (DP 2141) that fit the BJ-7s and earlier models to '61. They may be compatible to the BT-7. There's a little more dust but overall I'm very happy with the braking action. Give them a try.
ebc-dp2141_w_ml.jpg


BTW, wife and I were visiting in Lompoc last month and think we sighted your car one early morning. Very nice- two tone correct? That and the unmistakable sound caught my attention! GONZO.
 

Rob Glasgow

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Thanks for the lead on the brake pads. I will order today. Yes that was me as the only other Healey in the area is black and not driven very often. Hope you enjoyed our little town. We've off the beaten track so don't get many visitors. It's a great place to live if you don't need a lot of high end fashion stores......
 
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Rob,

I have a BJ8. I went to get another set of the Ferodos, but the parts guy sold me some 'Spectra,' which he claimed were made by Ferodo, but I don't think they're as good.
 

Rob Glasgow

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Thanks Bob. I just ordered a set of EBC Greenstuff pads based on a recommendation from Gonzo. I'll let you all know if I see an improvement over my current Moss Classic Gold pads. Last year I replaced a set of Moss Semi Ceramic pads with my current Moss Classic Gold pads and found a bit of improvement with the basic pads. I'm not looking for a modern power brake system result, just a little better than I've got now.
 
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Michael Oritt

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Since starting this topic a few weeks back I decided to replace everything (except for the brake pipes) and purchased new rotors, caliper rebuild kits, inner and outer bearings and semi-metallic pads along with new rear shoes, all from Moss, plus had the rear drums turned. I have already completed the rears and expect to finish up the fronts tomorrow or Sunday.

If I understand correctly the instructions that came with the front pads/rotors they talk about doing 6-8 moderately hard brakings, then 2-4 harder ones and then apparently coasting to a stop--and specifically warning against coming to a stop with the brakes engaged--then letting the brakes cool for 15 or so minutes. This last instruction might be a bit hard to do where I live and am wondering why I could not come to a stop by using the E-brake.

Does anyone have any suggestions, comment or experience with this bedding-in procedure?
 

HealeyRick

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Since starting this topic a few weeks back I decided to replace everything (except for the brake pipes) and purchased new rotors, caliper rebuild kits, inner and outer bearings and semi-metallic pads along with new rear shoes, all from Moss, plus had the rear drums turned. I have already completed the rears and expect to finish up the fronts tomorrow or Sunday.

If I understand correctly the instructions that came with the front pads/rotors they talk about doing 6-8 moderately hard brakings, then 2-4 harder ones and then apparently coasting to a stop--and specifically warning against coming to a stop with the brakes engaged--then letting the brakes cool for 15 or so minutes. This last instruction might be a bit hard to do where I live and am wondering why I could not come to a stop by using the E-brake.

Does anyone have any suggestions, comment or experience with this bedding-in procedure?

Mike,

I mentioned bedding-in up above using this procedure: https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6443 The idea of not using the brakes before the final stop is to prevent braking material being transferred from the pads to the rotors or drums. Once the pad material gets transferred onto the hot rotor or drum it cooks there and makes a rough and bumpy surface that negatively affects braking performance.
 
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Michael Oritt

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Completed the install this morning and followed the recommended procedure including the no-brake stop which, with a bit of planning, was not to difficult to accomplish.

After giving the brakes an hour or so to cool off I went out for a ride. Brake performance is better than when I started, which after all is what I was after....
 
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