• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Tow truck blues - good analysis for you to ponder

All Weber'd up 1750, 11mm cams, blah-blah. The SPICA on the original 2L was a limp excuse for a "pump". So weak and worn out the fuel would boil in the lines and vapor-lock...
Took the opportunity to screw together a REAL Alfa engine. :devilgrin:
 
Bill,

My hat's off to you.
I can't see how anyone can get that lower bolt out.
I can get a socket (w extension) on the bolt but how can you put a wrench on the other side to hold the nut?

OK, folks don't forget this is an exercise in analysis. All the clues are there. Let's say that the starter is dead and the fuel pump is faulty - operates intermittantly. The big question - how come it wouldn't push start? Remember, after 4 good attempts at push starting the fuel filter was filled with gas and one of the guys said he could smell gasoline. I've been push started a bunch of times before so it's not my technique.

Unless I'm missing something, there is an ignition problem as well. Kind of unbelievable to have 3 major things go wrong at once, but hey.
 
3 major things all electrically related... hmmm

m
 
you should be able to pull the fuel pump easily and determine if it is pumping just by pumping it and seeing if it moves air. I realize lots of folk love electric, but, I figure if mechanical lasted for 30 plus years, a new one should do that again. Certainly that would eliminate one issue
 
Yeah, mechanical.
Trouble is JP, I remember replacing it not so long ago.
("not so long ago" means anytime in the past ten years and "some time ago" means anything that happened in the past that I can actually remember"

I'm going to take it apart and see if anything is amiss - I'm taking a break - this is beating me up.

I took a look at the gas line out the tank - its all metal meaning I'd have to cut it to install an electric pump. Would it be useless to install in the engine bay - I realise these are pushers and they'll get hot in there but.

I'm hoping something is wrong with the mechanical one - if so I'll just get another one.
 
TOC said:
Pump is mechanical, right?

Sorry misread that about that fuel pump. :blush:
 
I put a facet up in the engine bay.
It worked very well for quite a while, but now is very noisy.
Still works, but noisy.
Mine was the longer cylindrical body pump, all metal construction.
They get about $80 for them at o'really's...
 
Rick,
Thanks for post.
That's it then - in the engine bay it goes!

$80 - o'really?

OK, now back to the starter removal.
 
I'm foggy on just how I did it--I think the experience was so traumatic I unconsciously blanked it out. :wink: If it wasn't pouring rain right now I'd go out and try to refresh my memory. I know there was a way to jam the wrench in to hold the nut from the back; it may have even been to hold it parallel so the legs on the box end straddled the nut. If Nigel doesn't float away or a twister carries him off to Kansas, I'll check later.
 
You can get a starter at the local car parts store.

Tis a 1964 Dodge of some sort, mine even said MG on the case when I got it. Think I paid like 60 bucks. Some one here will know the specifics.
 
bigjones said:
OK, after the muffler install I drove to the big city to get some home brew supplies. On the way there, it experienced one slight stagger - like maybe a slug of water in with the gas.

Leaves the h/b shop and goes about 1/2 mile and the car quits - luckily it can stagger into a car park. I pop the hood and see the glass fuel filter is empty. I disconnect the fuel line before it get to the filter and crank the engine - no fuel coming out!
Hoping that the 1/4 full gauge is wrong, I walk a mile to the nearest gas station in the blistering heat. Gets back, empties a gallon in the tank. Car will not crank. There is the click but no crank of the engine.
I pushed it and when it got rolling jumped in (this is not recommended). Got up speed and in 2nd gear let out the clutch. Nuttin' honey.
Coasted into another parking lot where there happened to be 2 guys taking a break. They gave me 4 push starts but nothing. One guys says he can smell gas. Gas filter has filled up.
OK, walks back to the h/b shop and asks a guy to come on out a give the car a jump start.
This does not work. Click but nothing else.
So I resigned myself to the $125 tow truck.
Back home, the headlights come on and do not decrease in intensity when I hit the starter..
Looks like I've got at least 2 big problems (mechanical fuel pump and starter motor), don't you think?
Have not done anything - too disgusted at the momoment.
Time to invest in a trailer
 
Just to finish this thread off:

Managed to get the starter out.
Put it like this - if it ever happens again I'll hope to get push-started and then I'll drive it to the LBC shop and let them change it out.

I ended up using what I think is called a "distributor wrench" - the 9/16" box end is at right angles to the handle. (Actually it is at an angle greater than 90 - I put it in the vise and pounded on it - I think I got it from the $5 junk table at FLAPS so no big deal if it broke) That way you can grope around and hold the bolt head at the back. A socket on a medium length extension can grip the nut at the front. This is the bottom nut and bolt - the top one is visible and easy to undo.

On re-install, masking tape holds the new bolt as you grope around and feed it through the engine casting hole. I then used just the extension with a nut taped on the end to carefully thread on the bolt and pull it through. Tighten up using a "thumb rachet" on the extension until tight then finished off with a regular socket handle until real tight. Then taped on a new grade 8 lock-washer on the extension bar and another nut. Hopefully that will hold it.

The replacement starter come from my 1275 car - removal was an ecstatic joyfest in comparison- there is even an inspection hole there.

Advance Auto confirmed the 1500 starter "dead" but the 1275 "good".

Its now installed and makes the appropriate noise. Woohoo!
BTW, the starters are identical but the 1500 uses an alloy distance piece(?), something like 1/2" thick (didn't bother measuring it) and a thin metal shim.

Back to the fuel pump problem.

Cheers!
 
Back
Top