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torque wrench

Oh, it's not new math. It's just that 13 + 1 = 14. They can't put both 0 and 14 marks on the same spot. When the rotary scale is given one full turn the 0 line marks up so they don't need to show 14... after all when the 0 is in line with the axial scribe line, the top edge of the scale lines up with a graduation on the handle. (i.e. when you set to 54 Nm, you will turn until the 0 on the rotary scale lines up with the axial scribe line and the top edge of the rotary scale will rest right on the mark for 54 Nm. You don't need the number 14 stamped anywhere).

50 Nm is about 37 lb-ft. I think that is about right for the small diameter studs used on the rocker pedestals. However, I thought the larger head studs are set closer to 45 lb-ft (depending on what grade they are and if the threads are lubed). 45 lb-ft would be about 61 Nm. Check your manual to make sure that is what is recommended. Also, be sure you tighten in the right sequence and that you work your way up to full torque in steps. Do not tighten the first stud to full torque and then move on to the next. Go all the way around the head in the right sequence tightening in steps of about 1/3 the final torque. (i.e. for 60 Nm, torque the first time to 20 Nm, then go around a second time to 40 Nm, then finally a third time to full torque).
 
Just a reminder that you should always store the torque wrench with it fully backed off to "0" or "stop" as marked on mine. This releases the tension and will help keep it in calibration. Just putting it back in your tool box set at whatever the last value was, will cause it to lose its accuracy over time.
 
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