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Torque wrench question

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Is a torque wrench like this adequate for getting the correct tension on our cars?

I ask because this is what I am using now but I'm not sure I trust it's reading...

Torque%20Wrench.jpg
 
I hate those things but others will swear by 'em... I want a calibrated "click" type in hand for proper torque.
 
I have used the bar wrench all my life. The work fine, and are very accurate. But I have to admit, it is a little more difficult to make out the marks now then it was 40 years ago.
 
See?

...told ya. :wink:
 
Spring type click torque wrenches should be stored at the lowest working torque range. Example- 1/2 drive 30 to 250 lb should be stored at 30lbs. Many wrenches do not have a reading of zero and going below the working range can strech the spring and damage the inner workings. This is a problem I have seen constantly in my 32 years of selling automotive tools and is the major cause of problems in these wrenches.Split beam can be stored at any range,but can only torque in the righty tighty direction.Cars with left hand threads,such as lugs,it doesnt work.
 
Do you really have to break a torque wrench in? You can't take it out of the box and use?
 
You do not need to break in a torque wrench. It comes already calibrated. Especially if it is a clicker type. The clicker types need to be stroed at their lowest setting or as indicated on the label for some. The wrenches can be calibrated for clockwise and counter clockwise directions. The typical is a 3/8s or 1/2-inch drive 20 to 120-ftlbs is more than sufficient for our british cars. If you ever drop a wrench or any part gets damaged you will need to have the calibration checked. On a side note just because it is calibrated never assume the value on the handle is correct. You will need to refer to the calibration data sheet for the actual vs. markings error/differences. It could be as much as 5 to 10% worst case by normally 1 to 3% which if this makes a difference and starts to strip threads thats a sign of you need to replace bolts. Good luck.
 
As previously noted, this isn't a nuclear reactor or turbine housing. Torque values aren't very critical on anything in these engines.

I generally prefer using the beam type as I can watch torque creep as the fastener keeps spinning or slipping. I can also more comfortably creep up on a torque value.

That said, the more torque I put down, the more things shake and wiggle while I'm trying to look at the wrench. Also, many times things are not conveniently oriented for viewing while torquing. Then there is the dragging the needle on the housing because I'm not applying my forces perfectly square.

So, for ease of use, the click types sure are easier.
 
DNK said:
Do you really have to break a torque wrench in? You can't take it out of the box and use?
Click to expand...

This is on the discription of the split beam one

"There is no need to "work in" a C series torque wrench before using it the first time. "
 
Torque on head studs is a bit critical. The only SnapOn tool I own is their click-type torque wrench. I sent it off a few months back to have it checked and it was right on the mark. Pricey, but feels good.
 
foxtrapper said:
As previously noted, this isn't a nuclear reactor or turbine housing. Torque values aren't very critical on anything in these engines.

I generally prefer using the beam type as I can watch torque creep as the fastener keeps spinning or slipping. I can also more comfortably creep up on a torque value.

That said, the more torque I put down, the more things shake and wiggle while I'm trying to look at the wrench. Also, many times things are not conveniently oriented for viewing while torquing. Then there is the dragging the needle on the housing because I'm not applying my forces perfectly square.

So, for ease of use, the click types sure are easier.
Click to expand...

I have a few: Snappy 1/2" drive for ft/lb (30~200) and both a 1/4" drive "clicker" and a dial indicator one for in/lb. A Proto 3/8" drive for 10~120 ft/lb.

I've rebuilt things from the 'usual' LBCs to Rollie, Lotus, Ferrari, Porsche and other 'exotic' engines... so liken that to th' helicopter "Jesus Nut" or a turbine shell. They get regular calibration checks and certainly give me more confidence of their accuracy than any of the beam style ones ever would.

All depends on what level of accuracy the application requires... and the wallet will bear.
 
I still have the first torque wrench I ever bought 51 years ago. It's like those in the first photo above. I have built my engine and torqued the head down numerous time. It works fine for me.
 
I have a couple of old beam types, but use a calibrated 3/8 clicker and a 1/2 inch clicker. Like someone kinda mentioned earlier, were not building Swiss watches or nuclear reactors here. I can't count the engines I've put together and never used a torque wrench. Amazing, but they never fell apart! The only problem I ever had was <span style="font-weight: bold">over</span> torquing and popping a stud or two. That's when I started using them. I had a 600 pounder but gave it to my son when I got out of the construction business. You had to eat your Wheaties before using that thing.
happy0148.gif
 
The beam type has worked well for me for many years. One has to watch that the fulcrum in the handle is positioned right to get accurate readings and I have marked the back side of the scale, with magic marker, a number of times to be able to use the wrench in awkward positions. More important than what torque wrench, is to be sure and use one when you should. I have also found an inch pound wrench to be useful when dealing with smaller fittings and torque values under 15 ft pds or so.
 
Ok;..So whats the most accurate?...Oh!..Whats the correct torgue setting for the lug bolts on a Spitfire's chinsey 3/8"bolt studs?
Ken
PS;And i'm NOT SURE i want to trust a Chinese torgue wrench. :grouphug:
 
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