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tahoe healey
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torque settings
- Thread starter tahoe healey
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John Loftus
Darth Vader
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From the workshop manual:
Cylinder head studs ... 400 lb. in.
Cylinder head nuts ... 900 lb. in.
No listing for the oil pan but I would just snug them up lightly being that there is a cork gasket. Better technique is to replace the gasket and use hylomar (permatex brand) on the gasket surfaces.
From my limited experience, oil out the exhaust is not a head gasket problem. Could be rings but probably the rocker arm assembly gushing oil and getting by the valve seals (remove the oil fill cap with the engine running and see if you see oil squirting everywhere. If it looks o.k., take off the valve cover and start engine. The oil should only ooze out around the rocker arms.) Let us know how it goes.
John
Cylinder head studs ... 400 lb. in.
Cylinder head nuts ... 900 lb. in.
No listing for the oil pan but I would just snug them up lightly being that there is a cork gasket. Better technique is to replace the gasket and use hylomar (permatex brand) on the gasket surfaces.
From my limited experience, oil out the exhaust is not a head gasket problem. Could be rings but probably the rocker arm assembly gushing oil and getting by the valve seals (remove the oil fill cap with the engine running and see if you see oil squirting everywhere. If it looks o.k., take off the valve cover and start engine. The oil should only ooze out around the rocker arms.) Let us know how it goes.
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tahoe healey
Yoda
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I'm working on an oil pan and valve cover leak and the gaskets are only 1000 old. Can halomar can be used on these gaskets or are new ones needed? Is there something better?
w. scott brunkhurst
Jedi Hopeful
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tahoe healey,
BMC recommended less than 150 inch pounds for the front cover. I believe these are the same size screws as in the oil pan, although the length of engagement might not be the same. You should check that if possible. So I would follow their spec. and use a good sealant on both sides of the gasket.
SB
BMC recommended less than 150 inch pounds for the front cover. I believe these are the same size screws as in the oil pan, although the length of engagement might not be the same. You should check that if possible. So I would follow their spec. and use a good sealant on both sides of the gasket.
SB
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Hi Tahoe Healey, I personally have never found that using a used gasket would be satisfactory no matter what you coat it with. Get a new gasket and then coat it with halomar both sides. If you are blowing oil and blueish smoke out the exhaust pipe I would suggest that the oil is not really coming out the pipe but is leaking from you gaskets and being blown along the under carrage of the car and trailing behind whereever it can fling off of. Admittedly you would have a considerable oil leak to do this but I have seen it happen. Sometimes the oil is so bad that it flings off the rear bumper. this oil is usually coming from the oil pan, rear main bearing area. Oil leaks from the upper engine area such as the valve cover and side lifter plates won't make it to the back of the car because it trails into the firewall and the trans tunnel. If you are blowing bluish smoke out the exhaust pipe, it is leaking past the valve stem seals and down the valve stems into the cylinders and possibly also leaking "as blow by" past the piston rings. the piston ring problem means a complete overhaul to fix. If the engine runs strong and doesnt rattle or knock you may be able to live with alittle oil consumption depending on how you drive.
If the oil is coming down the valve stems this does not necessarily mean a tare down. I changed my valve stem seals to an after market type called the umbrella type which is modeled after ones used in Fords of the '50s thru 70s. It basically is a wide umbrellal over the top of the stem that fills most of the area inside the valve spring, this is different that the typical "0" ring style usually used. In many cases the '0' ring style gets completely dried and cracked and brittle and crumbels away to the point that there is nothing around the valve stem at all anymore and the oil just flows right down the stem and into the cylinder, gets burnt and comes out the pipe as blue smoke. The way you can test for failing valve stem seals vise piston ring blow-by is that while driving with the engine warmed up, let your car decelerate down a hill with your foot off the gas pedal. The cylinders then become suction units thereby drawing the oil down the valve stems and into the cylinders. near the bottom of the hill given enough room floor the gas pedal and accelerate. If the oil has been sucked into the cylinders this will blow it out as blue smoke. if the problem is with the rings it will be hardly noticable. Please know that many engines with some miles on them will have some smoke showing by this proceedure. It just depends how much you want to tolerate.
Hope I might have helped some.
Dave
If the oil is coming down the valve stems this does not necessarily mean a tare down. I changed my valve stem seals to an after market type called the umbrella type which is modeled after ones used in Fords of the '50s thru 70s. It basically is a wide umbrellal over the top of the stem that fills most of the area inside the valve spring, this is different that the typical "0" ring style usually used. In many cases the '0' ring style gets completely dried and cracked and brittle and crumbels away to the point that there is nothing around the valve stem at all anymore and the oil just flows right down the stem and into the cylinder, gets burnt and comes out the pipe as blue smoke. The way you can test for failing valve stem seals vise piston ring blow-by is that while driving with the engine warmed up, let your car decelerate down a hill with your foot off the gas pedal. The cylinders then become suction units thereby drawing the oil down the valve stems and into the cylinders. near the bottom of the hill given enough room floor the gas pedal and accelerate. If the oil has been sucked into the cylinders this will blow it out as blue smoke. if the problem is with the rings it will be hardly noticable. Please know that many engines with some miles on them will have some smoke showing by this proceedure. It just depends how much you want to tolerate.
Hope I might have helped some.
Dave
Henri
Jedi Knight
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I had a simliar experience...of what I thought was oil blowing out the exhaust...if yours is blackish...it might be that your choke is out to far and you are running too rich...you might look at that...when I easied back on the choke I found that corrected the problem...this might not be what is causing your problem...but I thought I'd mention it just in case...otherwise...good luck...sound like you have some repair work to be done...
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To add some additional thoughts to the valve seal and valve cover leakage thread: If your rocker shaft and rocker arm bushings are not in good shape, you will have excess oil flying about under the valve cover. This will make your valve cover leak very much worse, flood your valve seals with oil and cause oil to be draw into the rear carb through the hose from the valve cover vent to the rear air cleaner. If your rocker arm and bushings are in good shape, you can run with valve cover off (as in adjusting the valves) and not spill any oil. If not, it will squirt you in the eye if you open the oil cap. Suggest you check these. If ok, oil will slowly weep from the rocker arms; if not it will squirt out of the rocker arm holes.
Good Luck and
John
Good Luck and
John
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tahoe healey
Yoda
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What a great wealth of info I got!!! Now,if weekends were just a little longer...It appears that the choke would not shut off completely and the black was like carbon.
Now I have a new delema. There is a small cylinder with a single wire comming from the end which is mounted on the fire wall below the voltage regulator. The five inch lead is not connected to anything, nore is there a screw missing anything with in reach. It does not seem to effect the running of anything. I have not seen this on other BJ8s. Any ideas?
Again thanks to all who offered me help.
Rich.
Now I have a new delema. There is a small cylinder with a single wire comming from the end which is mounted on the fire wall below the voltage regulator. The five inch lead is not connected to anything, nore is there a screw missing anything with in reach. It does not seem to effect the running of anything. I have not seen this on other BJ8s. Any ideas?
Again thanks to all who offered me help.
Rich.
Scott Brunkhurst
Jedi Hopeful
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I think that you might remove it and look for the manufacturer's name and a part number. Look for their web sight and ask for help. It sounds like a previous owner was trying something on his own that seems to have been unnecessary. One question. How does your rev counter operate? Is it smooth or jumpy?
SB
SB
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tahoe healey
Yoda
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By rev counter do you mean the tack? If so, it is jumpy. I assumed it was a British thing as my XK 140 did so also. It seems to smooth out at higher RPMs.
Rich.
Rich.
Scott Brunkhurst
Jedi Hopeful
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As I recall in my MGB the tach had a separate voltage regulator or something similar and I think it had one wire. I'm not quite sure. Maybe this will spark someone's memory.
SB
SB