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TR2/3/3A Torque setting question for TR3

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M

mallard

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I can't seem to find the torque setting for the large bolt that goes thru the fan extension and pulley hub to the crankshaft. I did find something that said 8-10 lbs but that seems way to low.
 
Right, the 8-10 is for the 6 small bolts that hold the extension and pulley to the hub. I've not seen a factory torque spec for the big bolt, but that usually means to use the 'standard' torque, which would be 140 ftlb for a 5/8-18 (SAE grade 3). Anyway, that's what I use and it seems to work out OK.
 
I agree with Randall and what I usually end up doing after I have torqued it up to my best body strength is turn my air compressor up 120 psi and driving it home that way.
Steve
 
Ever wake up in the night with a thought about something you read here? Happened to me about 3:50 this morning.

Isn't that bolt to be tightened such that the handcrank dog is aligned to "10 minutes to 4:00" when the engine is at TDC? Seems that would preclude a specific torque value.

I'm also thinking there is a locking tab involved but I must admit I have never had the thing off & on so I am not at all sure.

Of course if you aren't retaining the hole in the radiator then dog position is not important.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Isn't that bolt to be tightened such that the handcrank dog is aligned to "10 minutes to 4:00" when the engine is at TDC? Seems that would preclude a specific torque value.

I'm also thinking there is a locking tab involved but I must admit I have never had the thing off & on so I am not at all sure.
Click to expand...

Geo- I think you are right as to an exact torque, I know there were shims for just the purpose of gettting that alignment so I guess in theory you could add shims, and at least torque it to some minimum value. Likewise there is indeed that locking plate so to make it align with the flats on the bolt I think you'd be looking at a meets or exceeds torque.
 
As I read the book, you tighten first and then check the position (rather than tightening to the position). Then if the position is off, use shims to correct it. Although "10 minutes to 4:00" sounds really precise, I believe they mean the line formed when the minute hand is in the "10 minutes until the hour" position and the hour hand is in the "4:00" position. Being off by 5 degrees either way is not going to hurt anything.

(Hmmm, wonder how much longer it will be until most people don't know what a "minute hand" is
grin.gif
)

But I have no intention of trying to crank start mine, so I don't worry at all about the dog position. The shims tend to get mangled anyway, so mine are long gone. And the locking plate for the crank dog is clamped in place by the fan bolts, so it can be turned to any position.
 
I lightly crank mine with a 1/2" impact wrench. By lightly I mean I don't keep on tightening down with the impact once it's tight and the head stops moving.
 
I had a 65 Sunbeam Alpine in high school and could not afford to fix the starter, so I would use the hand crank. What would happen is I would turn the crank until I felt resistance with the compression stroke and then give it a good push and it started right up. I guess I do not understand the 10 and 4:00 idea. Is that to get the handle in a convenient location for starting? I addition, those big bolts are often a problem because of the high torque. I could not get my son’s bolt loose on his Honda, so I call the dealer. What they told me to do is put a wrench on the bolt and pin the wrench to the floor and turn the engine over with the key; it worked.
Steve
 
sp53 said:
I guess I do not understand the 10 and 4:00 idea. Is that to get the handle in a convenient location for starting? Steve
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
sp53 said:
I guess I do not understand the 10 and 4:00 idea. Is that to get the handle in a convenient location for starting?
Click to expand...
Pre-zactly!
 
I guess I should of had alot more questions than I did about this. I did learn alot more than I was thinking I needed to learn. I was wondering what the shim was for. Thanks Geo for bringing all this to a head. I quess I should ask about the balancer half circle that goes outside of the locking ring. I will be using a Tropical fan instead of the flat original fan. How would I balance the fan assembly anyway?
 
mallard said:
How would I balance the fan assembly anyway?
Click to expand...
You need a balancing jig that will hold the fan & hub assembly between centers, and let it rotate if it is out of balance. I bought one from HF,
https://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-balancing-stand-98488.html
but I'm not particularly pleased with it. If I ever need it again, I'll rework it so the bearings turn easier, and the cones are more nearly concentric with the shaft.

But since I am really happy with my electric fan, it's not likely I'll need the balancer again :laugh:
 
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