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Torque setting of rear hub nut

healeynut said:
Or you could just buy the tool from British Tool!
I ordered one from the guy at the onset of the job, but he was moving (or some such thing) and wanted to finish the job. When the tool finally arrived, I sold it at cost to someone here on bcf.

In reality, the lo-buck tool I made is more robust, and I would not have had the same confidence in the swaged-tube tool at that torque value.

Some links to previous threads on the subject:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...ut_t#Post252806

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...true#Post214688
 
I could have bought the tool but I really wanted to put the rear axel together that weekend. Not to mention the rewarding sense of acomplishment to hear that distinctive "click" of the torque wrench after carving the tool from a chunk of cold steel. Arrrh.

Bob
 
I don't know squat about MGAs, but on our BN2 and BJ8 the hubs are a pretty tight fit. It did take a pretty good sized puller to get them off my BJ8 recently, then to put them back I warmed the hubs in the oven and cooled the axle housing with dry ice, and it still took some persuasion with a 3-lb. sledge and a steel tube for a drift. Is that an "interference fit?"

Contrast that to the front hubs, where the bearings slip on and the spacer and shims arrangement is used to pinch the inner races against the inner spacer and the nut so that they don't turn. In that case pretty good torque is required on the nut.
 
C'mon, hours? I know, you're really just trying the "play up" the socket's value šŸ˜‰

Yours must be a lot prettier than mine, 'cause I didn't spend much time on it at all...

IMG_6560a.jpg
IMG_6560a.jpg


IMG_6562a.jpg


But I remember that thread, and likewise used 150# torque (though I might've only "pulled" 37-1/2 Lbs, with the assistance of a 4:1 multiplier).
Updated pictures (was looking for torque value__again...)
 
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