• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Torque sequence and spec

go_inbroke

Senior Member
Offline
I need to know the sequence and ft/lbs to reinstall a head on a 1977 MBG. Gasket not sealing. If there is a place I can click to to see the sequence, please let me know.

Thanks
 
Start at the center=most stud and gradually work your self out to each end, alternating front to rear and criss-crossing the head (for lack of better terminology).

I oil the threads of the studs and install/tighten them into the block by hand first. (I think this gives about 8 ft/lbs of torque if memory serves me correctly.

I then start at 40 ft/lbs and torque all nuts as above....then restart and torque up to 50 ft/lbs. I cannot remember if that is the maximum torque, and my manuals are out in the barn.

Do you have a workshop manual? There is a diagram in it describing the sequence, as well as a torque specification table.

I'm sure someone else will chime in here.
 
Chiming in:

As old and less than fresh these blocks are I have found it to be true on occasion that the surface of the block will pull up ever so slightly at teh base of teh stud, sometimes enough to prevent proper reinstall of teh head. When I rebuild I usually remove teh studs and chamfer the top of eth stud hole in te hblock, recessing it ever so slightly - just in case.

Now, th eone thing you need to know, other than always use a fresh gasket, is to figure out why teh head gasket was leaking to begin with.

Not to be an alarmist but Is a sleeve cracked, what about head. If the engine overheated and then started blowing coolant out the exhaust you could even have a warped head. Or was it all from the oil passage rubber oring being old and dry - I've installed heads forgetting that crucial part and never been abvle to stop the leak no matter how careful I torque head.
 
Head was magna-fluxed, machined, and reinstalled. Valves adjusted...ran like crap. Forced smoke through the system at cyl #1 and got smoke through #2. Through #2, and got smoke through #1. Hoping quality, composite gasket, and good re-install will correct problem. I will follow the good advise I received here and keep my fingers crossed. Flying blind and having fun!
 
Payen gasket, patterned torque according to th' book... Rick said it. An "X" pattern from center to ends.

Gasses passing twixt pots one and two would seem to be a HUGE gasket issue. Chamfering the holes of the studs in the block is S.O.P. too.
 
I didn't install the head. Just had the car dropped in my lap to figure out. Will double nut and remove studs and use die-grinder and cone-stone to chamfer. I will run a tap through all threads. Carb cleaner and blow them out.

Wish me luck!
 
NO tap!! A "thread cleaner" instead. Taps cut, the 'chasers' have rounded edges.

...just an FYI. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the good info. To the parts store for a thread chaser.
 
Back
Top