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Top - how to install

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JPSmit

JPSmit

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OK friends, last night I put the cockpit surround and snaps and tenex on - easier than I had built it up to be in my mind (like most projects)

Just pulled out my new top and while I think I know I don't know I know so - HELP

*** it is a canvas top ***

Do I

1. pull apart old/ clean repaint etc etc. (I've broken 5 drill bits so far on the rivets - I walked away before something got broken.)

2. Attach snaps to top

3. attach top to car at back and stretch to fit at front?

4. glue (contact cement) to front rail

5. reattach rubber gasket

6. Install hardware?

HELP? (As specific as if I need heat or to waterproof or whatever please)

thanks all
 
I've never done a canvas top before, but here is some hopefully helpful advice:

1)<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I've broken 5 drill bits so far on the rivets[/QUOTE] It sounds like you are trying to drill all the way through the rivets. Don't. Get a bit that is slightly bigger than the rivet hole in the rail. Drill just enough to pop the cap off the rivet and push the old rivet shaft into the rail.

2)Do your best to preserve the old top as it makes a great pattern for where to apply snaps etc.

3) I attach tops on the back, then attach the front without contact cement, only the gasket rail (the riveted strip). I only put a enough rivets to hold the top in place while I put it up to make sure it fits and looks right. Odds are, you will not get it right the first time. I like a very tight top, and this allows you to test and stretch before you commit. Once you have the top how you want it, you can put in the remaining rivets and apply cement if desired. Although, I did not cement mine and have no complaints.
 
J-P, I just followed these instructions this past week and all turned out fine.

https://www.gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/topWS.htm

Not sure where you are breaking drill bits. On Header Rail 1/8" bits take care of all of the old rivets. In the rear, snaps are held on by screws.

I used soldering iron to melt / burn holes in for snaps and extra tenax posts. That won't work with canvas but an awl or scribe can be used to get a hole started and little tiny sharp scissors, the ones on my $8.95 red swiss army knife are now almost toast but they really worked well for the little holes I needed to enlarge. Time for a new one from Lowes.

I ordered a new aluminum header rail and weather seal for the front. Once header rail is in place, a putty knife can be used to work weather seal into the grooves on the header rail.
 
1) No need to heat / do it in sunlight... Canvas doesn't stretch like the vinyl tops do!

2) Cleaning / waterproofing... HAARTZ (the fabric manufacturer for most of the nice canvas tops) recomments the RaggTopp brand of cleaner and protectant. I got a kit from my top vendor at time of purchase; about $40 plus shipping if I remember correctly.
 
also found that gasket punches from a cheepie tool store work great for tenax holes...
 
ecurie_ecosse said:
And,one other thing you require is "Patience",JP.And lots of it. :devilgrin: :jester:

Stuart. :cheers:
Click to expand...

Dang

Lord, give patience but hurry
 
I just put a top on my MGB (vinyl) last week and would love to say I could give you some good hints.
The only thing that seemed to help me was to walk away from it every now and again and swear a lot.
I've done a couple of top and this one turned out decent, but I think it was more dumb luck than anything else.

I used some of the links provided above.

My race Spridget actually has a canvas top.
Not needed of course: It's promised to my brother's '73.
 
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