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Tools needed to remove front & rear suspension

drooartz

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So I've got a line on a parts car and arranged to buy all the bits I need for a disc brake conversion on my Bugeye. Only complication is it is about an hour away from me, and I'll need to pull the parts myself. So I need to make sure I've got all the necessary tools packed.

I'm taking the fronts from the shocks around to the a-arms; rear axles half shafts, rear hubs, drum brake backing plates, rear diff.

basic sockets/wrenches
socket for the rear hubs (1-7/8")
long bolts for dropping the front spring pans
floor jack and stands
tool for cracking tie rod ends

What else do I need? It's a long drive back if I forget something.
 
Off the top of my head:

18V impact gun
propane torch
PB Blaster
4' breaker bar
B.F.H
vise grips & needle nose pliers
cold chisels (lock tabs)
medium size ball-peen hammer

Or:
Sawzall :devilgrin:
 
Pickle fork to separate ball joint if you need steering arms. PB BLASTER lots if it. Saw all to cut the inner bolts apart.tou can slice between chassis mount and a arm pretty easily. What year parts car? You'll need steering arms if parts car >'72. Plan on cutting things out or you will be there all day. Carefully check A-arms for cracks. I spent all day trying to pull a '68 apart to get a set of wishbones only to find both cracked and unusable.

If sway bar is there pull it as well. Apple Hydraulics can re bush a arms and Peter C can ream kingpins.
 
Thanks for the ideas, guys.

Parts car is a '75. Planning on grabbing the steering arms already. Will thrown a sawzall and torch into the tool bag.
 
Rendevous with the old parts car is on for Monday after work. Got my tool kit assembled, just need to pick up a sawzall on my way down into the city.

I'm not really ready for these parts yet, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity. Cars are a bit thin on the ground around here, so you have to jump when opportunity knocks.
 
Not a tool, but zip lock bags, a sharpe and your camera will help keep things organized. I know you have done it before, but leaving an important bolt behind will only cost $$$$
Paul
 
Good thought on the ziploc bags and sharpie. Will add to the kit.
 
All packed and ready to head over there after work. Wish me luck!

packedfordissassemble.jpg
 
Got some good use out of that tool, Rick. :smile:

Got about 1/2 way done last night, heading back today to finish up. Sawzall was the trick for the a-arms -- not entirely sure the a-arms will be salvageable, but the disc brake hubs and uprights look okay under a thick coating of grease and gunk. Still have to remove the LH a-arm and pull the rear end.
 
Where is it? Let me know if you need an extra hand.

Thanks, but I think I'm covered. Car is up in Syracuse (out by Antelope Island). Bit of a drive, but I got the bits cheap so it's worth a bit of effort.
 
Drew,

Just be careful working under there!!!
 
With the A-arms...most of them need new braised in ends.... which now a days it's probably cheaper to buy the hole A arm thing brandy new! what do you think?
 
Oh also, for the rear, I just gave in and bought a cheap 1 7/8's socket to get the nut off..other than that the bearings need to be pressed on... heck I just used my big vise... as far as removal... just pick the right size socket and go after it!
 
The good A-Arms i.e. same as on RB Spridgets which are much heavier duty were $250+ last time I looked. Cheaper grade runs $150 or so from usual suspects. I just had a set cleaned up and rebushed for $230 with shipping both ways. Took 5-7 Business Days for turn around. IF A-Arms are not cracked, and that's always an if, still cheaper to rebush.
 
I've got the bug socket for the rear nut, so should just be able to grab the bits I need. With the sawzall the a-arms weren't too bad, and a bit quicker than trying to un-goop the spindles for now. I will likely wind up buying new good-quality a-arms once I get to that point, a fair ways to go before I'm ready for that.

Shortly headed out to finish up the work. One way or another I'll be done with this tonight.
 
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