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too much oil pressure???

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Ed, quit worrying so much. I've never seen a bad pressure guage in over 35 yrs. of Brit car ownership . Sounds like your engine was rebuilt correctly. Depending on what weight oil you're running and how recently it was changed . Fresher oil will run a higher pressure . Kevin
 
Hello, Kevin,

Many thanks for the sage advice. As I am just getting back into driving a Triumph TR3 after almost 50 years of doing without, my knowledge of these great cars is pretty slim. I've only had this car for about a year, and with lack of experience in it I am concerned that I might be doing something harmful to it withou knowing. Thanks to you and others on the forum, I think I am gaining more confidence in the car.

Although the car, I am told, is "show quality," that is not my interest at all. My interest is in jumping in it at the first signs of good weather and taking road trips.... like today's 126 mile trip over the Blue Ridge Mountains.

As for the oil that I use, I use Brad Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50 Semi-synthetic oil, and I change it every 2000 miles. I have 600 miles left on the present oil change.

I didn't realize that new oil would give a higher oil pressure, but it is certainly logical.
 
Brinkerhoff said:
Fresher oil will run a higher pressure .
Click to expand...
It shouldn't. If it does, then either your oil is breaking down under normal usage, or is being contaminated with fuel.

A quality oil should be able to hold it's viscosity throughout the service interval. Some brands don't.
 
Hi All,

Been a while since I've posted. Been distracted past few months (plus car is under cover here in CT - worst winter in history).

Anyway, my '66 TR4A was rebuilt 8K miles ago. Here are the oil pressures I read:
Cold
-idle: 60 psi
-2,000 rpm: 80+ psi

Full Temp (185 degrees)
-idle: 50 psi
-2,000 rpm: 70 psi

Pressures continue to climb with rpm and never level off - makes me wonder if the relief valve is providing any "relief" at all. I now run Castrol GTX 10W-40 with the above results. I was running 20W-50 before. With the 20W-50, my cold pressures ran about 10 psi higher than above but the full-temp pressures were the same with both weights.

I was concerned at one time but, after posts similar to this, realize I am not the only one with this and learned not to worry too much. I simply keep the engine under 2000 rpm until I reach full temp.

Also, I've heard the pressure relief screw can be quite "fiddly" so, I've been reluctant to go there. I have a habit of trying to perfect or optimize something which is already working fine and creating more problems. For me, I think this goes in the category of "if it aint broke, don't fix it". I choose to drive and enjoy!

Bob
 
Randell, you could be more correct than I am about the oil. I was more concerned about oil pressure back when my engines were a bit more "unknown" inside. I owned a 64 MGB with a 5 main engine that had been rebuilt. When it was warmed up the pressure would drop to 10 psi at an idle and never higher that 50 when cold. Much lower than desired on that engine. A healthy MGB engine should hit 80 psi when cold ( opening the relief valve) . I never had a problem with it, only later finding out from the previous owner that the machine shop had ground the crank too small. With 20w -50 Castrol it would hold better pressure when the oil was fresh. I think the TR3 runs about 60 psi at speed , 40 at an idle. Kevin
 
Bob,

You've just described my experience:
Full temp 185
idle 30-40 psi
2,000 rpm at 70 psi ("two clicks above 50"), sometimes falling to 50 when "cruising" along steadily, no hills, no accelleration.

Thanks.

I'm with you. I try not to fix it if it ain't broken, although I am also a victim of "If it ain't broken, improve it." I, too, choose to drive and enjoy!
 
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