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todays's job - and a question

JPSmit

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Not Ms. Triss (yet) but SWMBO's 2013 Mini. Quick reminder, my Kia Soul's timing chain broke 2 weeks into COVID. So we have only had one car - the Mini - for a year. Other than occasionally wishing it were a little bigger it has been more than awesome. (we are still only filling it up about once a month.) At any rate the last couple of weeks it developed a slight misfire - not enough to pull a code - but enough to hesitate while accelerating and while sitting at a light. Fortunately this happened once before and I had a clue. Took off the coil and sure enough, plug #1 tube was half full of oil. Apparently it is a known flaw that Mini's have leaky head gaskets. So, cleaned it out (don't actually have a metric plug socket) but got it about 95% clear. So, very happy.

OTOH why oh why does BMW build such cra*ppy engines? Over and over again I read/ hear /watch stories of these engines failing in spectacular fashion. Everything costs more and I just can't get over what fails sooner than expected. I am glad that this happens only rarely (this is the second time) but, still.

But let's talk about Midgets. It is the first day of spring and I thought a little jaunt in Ms. Triss would be awesome. Put down the top, jump in the car and.... nada. Ok just one click. Am I correct in thinking solenoid?

Tomorrow I will try powering the starter directly. and then if nothing it is the starter but if something, then the solenoid? any other thoughts? It ran in the fall when I put it away.

cheers all!
 

Desert Rat

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Apparently it is a known flaw that Mini's have leaky head gaskets. So, cleaned it out (don't actually have a metric plug socket) but got it about 95% clear. So, very happy.

OTOH why oh why does BMW build such cra*ppy engines? Over and over again I read/ hear /watch stories of these engines failing in spectacular fashion. Everything costs more and I just can't get over what fails sooner than expected. I am glad that this happens only rarely (this is the second time) but, still.
cheers all!
The first and second generation Mini engines weren’t made by BMW. Gen 1 were Brazilian engines, same as a Dodge Neon, and your Gen 2 should be a N18 made by Peugeot. The 2014 3 door Mini was the first to use the BMW B38 engine and now the whole Mini line up is 100% BMW parts.
The third Gen are worlds apart from the first generations, early Gen 2 were the worst for failures.
 

Madflyer

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Any time you start with BMW or MB it might as well be an F16 for $$ to work on and parts. As for the KIA still under warranty??? Madflyer
 

Madflyer

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Not Ms. Triss (yet) but SWMBO's 2013 Mini. Quick reminder, my Kia Soul's timing chain broke 2 weeks into COVID. So we have only had one car - the Mini - for a year. Other than occasionally wishing it were a little bigger it has been more than awesome. (we are still only filling it up about once a month.) At any rate the last couple of weeks it developed a slight misfire - not enough to pull a code - but enough to hesitate while accelerating and while sitting at a light. Fortunately this happened once before and I had a clue. Took off the coil and sure enough, plug #1 tube was half full of oil. Apparently it is a known flaw that Mini's have leaky head gaskets. So, cleaned it out (don't actually have a metric plug socket) but got it about 95% clear. So, very happy.

OTOH why oh why does BMW build such cra*ppy engines? Over and over again I read/ hear /watch stories of these engines failing in spectacular fashion. Everything costs more and I just can't get over what fails sooner than expected. I am glad that this happens only rarely (this is the second time) but, still.

But let's talk about Midgets. It is the first day of spring and I thought a little jaunt in Ms. Triss would be awesome. Put down the top, jump in the car and.... nada. Ok just one click. Am I correct in thinking solenoid?

Tomorrow I will try powering the starter directly. and then if nothing it is the starter but if something, then the solenoid? any other thoughts? It ran in the fall when I put it away.

cheers all!
Did you have Ms Triss on a battery tender during it nap. Madflyer
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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Did you have Ms Triss on a battery tender during it nap. Madflyer
I did - and I also used a charger to try and start it - no difference
 

NutmegCT

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OK - battery was on charger. What's the battery voltage now?

Does the horn blow? headlights bright?

How old is the battery?

Loose cable connection(s)?

You mentioned you tried to start the car with the charger. That's not a good idea, for the car or for the charger!!

Tom M.
 

RickF

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OK - battery was on charger. What's the battery voltage now?

Does the horn blow? headlights bright?

How old is the battery?

Loose cable connection(s)?

You mentioned you tried to start the car with the charger. That's not a good idea, for the car or for the charger!!

Tom M.
You need to get out more Tom. Many chargers today come equipped with a starting boost function built right in. They are designed to start the car with a boost from the charger. It works great and stresses neither the car or the charger. 😁

Rick
 

NutmegCT

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You need to get out more Tom. Many chargers today come equipped with a starting boost function built right in. They are designed to start the car with a boost from the charger. It works great and stresses neither the car or the charger. 😁

Rick

Ah - if he has one of those, great! But what about all the other questions not answered ...
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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OK - battery was on charger. What's the battery voltage now?

Does the horn blow? headlights bright?

How old is the battery?

Loose cable connection(s)?

You mentioned you tried to start the car with the charger. That's not a good idea, for the car or for the charger!!

Tom M.
So first of all he does have one of those chargers.

Here is the rest of the answers.

1. I suspect the battery is on its way out - it is also 5 years old.

Because

2. Without the charger there is no horn or lights to speak of,

However.

3. With the charger attached I have loud horn and bright lights

4. But no starter

5. Time to isolate the solenoid methinks

any other suggestions welcome!

cheers all
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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I took the battery out of the car and on the bench it was about 11.5 volts. Starter doesn't even try to turn - just a click (unlike the repeated clicks of a flat battery) - will bypass the solenoid and see what happens.
 

Madflyer

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Basic DC electrics Volt are of little value it's AMP'S. Your battery charger will most likely put out 6 to maybe 10 amps as not to boil battery as your Gen. or Alt may put out as needed 40 to 100 Amps depending on your Max out put to run your, car lights, radio and of course power to starter and Ing. coil. Think of it this way; Driving in the rain at night with defroster on wipers lights and all at the same time. A gen may not even keep up with all that. If you add a dirty and lose connection it may run down you battery also if you go to long. NOTE if the top of your battery is ever wet it has overheated and may be low on water. That means if plates are not in water they will not provide as much AMPS. I hope this helps. As for me I have a DRY CELL battery and sits with a tender when not running. Here is the difference DRY CELL to LEAD ACID battery's. A LA battery can only take charging from extra AMPS at a slow rate either Gen or Alt this by the voltage Regulator. Caution with a DC battery it will suck any AMPS it can get and if to low as in discharged it can and will take out a Gem or Alt by sucking full amps from them. As the DC battery will not leak acid it should be kept fully charged. Madflyer
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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"will bypass the solenoid and see what happens."

JP - how'd that solenoid bypass test go?
Honestly the day was too nice to play in a garage - so hopefully today - watch this spot :smile:
 

DrEntropy

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hmmm... does the solenoid have the auxiliary pushbutton? If so, a "one-man" operation I'd suggest, rather than directly powering the starter would be to put the battery back in place, charger attached, iggy switch to the "on" position. With a long piece of rebar or suchlike, push the button and "rap" the starter motor's case a couple times with the bar, hammer or suitable mass to shock the brushes/commutator. If it spins then, your starter is fubar. If not, it's the solenoid. No button? Have someone turn the key to the start position long enough so you can give the starter the mechanical shock. In either case, don't hold in the starter position too long.
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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Annndddd the winner is Madflyer! Battery is no good. Hooked up another battery (cables it doesn't fit) and it turned over no problem. So, tomorrow (or more likely Wednesday) I am off to Costco to get a new one - why Costco? well it turns out the current battery is still under warranty so, hopefully will get a portion of the price back. Will keep you posted. thanks all!
 

twas_brillig

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clean all the heavy duty contacts while you're at it - something we should do semi-regularly, but never get 'round tuit.
 

LarryK

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The 2011 and newer MINIs take a special spark plug socket. Found out when changing plugs and socket got stuck in plug hole. Had to take cover off and use a slide hammer to get socket out. Bought a skinny long socket from a MINI parts source to do the job. I have a 2003 MINI S modified with 78K miles. 40K are SCCA competition miles, solo, time trials ,pde and road rallye. No problems. Wife's 2011 Countryman S has 58K miles. All the problems were in the first two yrs., all warranty. Knock on wood , no problems since, still a good comp car. I do all services at half the dealer intervals, in competition would service after each event. Even trans service on manual every 20K, auto service will be at 60K. Dealer has not touch the 03 in 16 yrs, and the 2011 in 5 yrs even with extended warranty.
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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The 2011 and newer MINIs take a special spark plug socket. Found out when changing plugs and socket got stuck in plug hole. Had to take cover off and use a slide hammer to get socket out. Bought a skinny long socket from a MINI parts source to do the job. I have a 2003 MINI S modified with 78K miles. 40K are SCCA competition miles, solo, time trials ,pde and road rallye. No problems. Wife's 2011 Countryman S has 58K miles. All the problems were in the first two yrs., all warranty. Knock on wood , no problems since, still a good comp car. I do all services at half the dealer intervals, in competition would service after each event. Even trans service on manual every 20K, auto service will be at 60K. Dealer has not touch the 03 in 16 yrs, and the 2011 in 5 yrs even with extended warranty.
Sounds great - I must confess I let my mechanic work on my new cars. I don't generally feel like I have the skills for more complex cars and more relevantly I don't have the time. I can afford to have my old cars off the road for days (weeks/ months/ years) SWMBO is much less charitable. :D (with good reason I might add) Of course COVID has made me much more selective about just dropping in to the mechanic but, snow tires come off soon and will get the rest done then.
 
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