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Today's Stupid Question

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My 'solution' would be to find a nut to act as a stop, or mark and cut the threaded end to appropriate length. Cutting will negate adjusting it later from that end, but the "business end" seems to have plenty of adjustment to accomodate any cable stretch likely to occur.

And I'm still a bit concerned about the angle of the ferrule at the bracket on idle position. It appears it has a "sawing" angle at the sheath entrance.
 
Bend the short leg of the bracket to optimize the cable angle relative to the sheath. Looking at the picture in the instructions, it appears that their bracket leg is at, or near, 90* relative to the long side of the bracket.
Jeff
 
Dale,

You need to loosen the clamp holding 23 to 16, position the gas pedal at the same height as the clutch and brake pedals, position the lever 23 properly in the slot for an idle position, and tighten the clamp. The tab on the bracket should be bent to be perpendicular to the inner cable going to the lever 23 when the lever is located 1/4 of the way from the end of travel. If you divide the slot into quarters the forward end would be 0/4, half way would be 2/4, and full back would be 4/4. By aligning the tab on the lever this way the misalignment will be minimized and the cable will have less friction and last longer. Splitting the difference.
 
Dale,

This is gettiing over complicated and my wife is asking me why I'm on the Forum again when I'm supposed to be on vacation.

You have removed the proper linkage.

How do you know that the throttle is at 80% and 100& without having any cable attached?

Are you talking about your pedal positions at the floor?

The next thing to do is to read my instructions for getting the proper bend in the housing. You have the mounting bracket on the rear carb positioned properly.

There is no difference between the two and three carb setups since the mounting will be on the rear carb and the throttle linkage mounts to the front carb on yours and the center carb on mine. The front carb isn't relevant on mine.

You are nearly there. After a good nights sleep this shouldn't be a problem.

When your pedal is up (throttle closed) you should be at the front of the bracket slot. When at wide open throttle, the lever arm shoud be at the rear.

This amount of travel will give you closed and wide open at the carbs.

I'm headed out for a day with my wife seeing the sites, so I won't be back in until late tonight since we're six hours ahead of you.
 
Thanks Paul, I thought you were supposed to having
fun on vacation??


"When your pedal is up (throttle closed) you should be
at the front of the bracket slot. When at wide open
throttle, the lever arm shoud be at the rear."


That is the missing info I need to proceed.

My pedal is about 3 inches off the floor at the front of
the bracket. My pedal is on the floor tight almost
immediately at 1/3 of the slot opening.

I appears I need to pull the throttle pedal cross bar
out and reset the position of the control arm. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nopity.gif

I believe a BCF member authored a "How to install new
throttle bushings".
I'll use that as my guide.

Go back to having fun.

d
 
You're now on the right track. Once you get the pedal to where you are happy with the height you should be fine.

Did you ever have wide open throttle with the other setup? I can't see how you would if that is all the farther that your lever would move?

I just came back from a 3 mile walk in the park with my nephews and the girls are going shopping for an hour.

My next stop this afternoon will be he Dutch Resistance Museum then a trip to the fashion district as payback for all of the TR6 project this year.
 
Paul,

Go back to having fun !!!

In hindsight, I probably never had full throttle.
Maximum spped of my car was a little over 70 MPH.

I never saw the tach over 4,000 RPMs.
 
OK-

Tearing out the entire gas pedal, throttle shaft, control
arm, new bushings, etc. I taking it back to base Bentley.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

I discovered the Pedro-ized elements after about an hour's
worth of effort. Paul's new, upgraded bushings look brand
new after 700 miles use.

Now put everything back together and begin the Ratco cable
assembly from scratch.

I really hate Pedro! Will he EVER go away for good?

d
pedroteam.jpg
 
Sounds to me as if you've found forty added horses with that new cable setup. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
Well, I'll say this, with stock ZS's, the original linkage is fully adjustable for 100% throttle, and back to idle. Works perfectly. However,everything must be in good condition. There is more than one way to install linkage, but only one way is right. Also, if you take plug cuts, and with 2 carbs, mixture is good, what do you gain with 3? In talking to someone in the "Fatherland", i.e., England, You can get 140 HP with 2 ZS's, and the right engine set-up. I believe it has been said also, 2 SU's actually make more power than 3 ZS's, but, I'd want to see dyno results. ZS with work, but require alot of patience. I still have ZS on my car. I think there are people who have dynoed these set ups. These comments only apply to street cars. The people who sell high performance parts are in business to sell parts. The only way to know if you are making better power is with dyno results for each modification. I have years of experience working in the past at GM dealerships. I have owned 6 MGB's, 3 TR6's, 2 Nortons, 1 Trident. It is very tricky to set up ZS's. SU's are better. I think at this point, I am making good power, because, my TR6 runs well, and, guess what, it gets not so good fuel mileage. It takes more fuel to make power. That said, I have seen comments for installing EFI on a TR6 where they get some impressive fuel mileage, I am not sure I believe it. The easiest way to set up a street TR6 to make more power is to copy the factory TR5 set up, except, use carbs, but the PI makes it much better.
 
TheSearcherMan said:
Also, if you take plug cuts, and with 2 carbs, mixture is good, what do you gain with 3?
Click to expand...
Just curious; why do you think a restrictive intake would show up on a plug cut ?

I'm inclined to agree that the triple setup is probably useless overkill unless lots of other mods have been made to take advantage of the increased flow; but a plug cut only tells you if you have the right ratio of fuel to air; not if there is a way to jam more of it into the cylinder.
 
You are right. This is why I don't think the TR6 intake is restrictive. in Kasners Trimph Comp. Prep Manual, the graph on page 11, full competition engine, using stock manifold, makes over 170 HP with ZS carbs. Now, if I know the ZS carbs on my Triumph will flow the right amount of fuel, and the plugs look good, then I must have the right amount of air also. I have also been told that the stock set up is not short on air, by, well just about everyone I have talked to. But, Kasner used a dyno. I will admit, he may have done minor work on the stock intake, I am not sure. Also, my needles are stock, and just about at the full rich position. Another thought for people is Kasners comments on the stock exhaust manifold, I plan to keep mine, however a single pipe maybe in the future. Your thoughts?
 
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