• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

+ to - conversion

Share this page

healeyboz

healeyboz

Jedi Knight
Offline
So, according to the instructions on Moss's site, all I have to do is re-polarize the generator and reconnect. Of course the negative post of the bat is to ground. Is this all? No change to the regulator or the coil?


I am also getting ready for an electrical systems check. Should I wait until I hook up the coil and the distributor?
 
You'll also need to reverse the wires at the coil. Just remember that the ground polarity always goes to the points.
Jeff
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Should I wait until I hook up the coil and the distributor? [/QUOTE]

Best to do that last as the points can 'fry' if the iggy is left on long with the engine static.
 
I needed to switch the wires on the fuel gauge when I did mine last fall.
 
I am running petronix in the dist., If the iggy is left on will the same possibly happen? (fry points)
 
I hope you are running a negative ground Pertronix!! If not, it will have to be replaced with the proper unit. There are no points to fry, but it seems the most common reason for Pertronix failure is leaving the ignition on.
Jeff
 
No points to fry, in that case. But if you're checking the rest of the circuits and expect to have the iggy on for a while to do it, I'd say isolate the Pertronix box anyhow so it isn't powered while you test. Purely precautionary, borne of superstition. And prior experience. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
ncbugeye said:
I needed to switch the wires on the fuel gauge when I did mine last fall.
Click to expand...

This is true or the guage will work in reverse, ie: full when on E and empty on F
 
So I did a test and the fuel gauge reads as if it were full either way the two wires are connected. Do I have a ground issue at the tank? There are three wires running to the gauge. Ground,,, runs to the middle like the other gauges and the other two wires that run to either post. Again I switched the two wires and it still runs up to full when I turn on the key. Hey, at least the gauge seems to work. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Mine always reads a bit less than a quarter of a tank, wonder if I need to switch leads around as I am neg ground.

Hmmm, something to try, the sender is new etc. need to check grounds as well I suspose.
 
Yeah, I'm still thinking I have a ground issue. I will probably drop the tank tomorrow and check.
 
Noop, no ground issue here, bad guage. See the other thread.

Sometimes I get motivated late at nite. Is nice and quiet and peaceful out in the garage.
 
I read the other thread and I'm still not completely convinced it is the guage. How would I test the volts coming to the wires at the gauge? If the tank is empty what should it read? Half tank etc...?
 
Heh, the tank is full. it reads about 1/8 up from empty. Voltage at the green brown ground wire from the tank and the green wire to the regulator (hot) is about 12 V.

If tank is full it should have max voltage and read full. At empty tank is should have 0 voltage and read empty.

Seems the guage is bad to me.
 
So if I hook the v meter to both of the guage wires I should not get a voltage reading or very little? When I put gas in the tank is should read more?
 
That is my understanding of the situation.
 
I think that you both need to verify that the ground from your gauges is good. As I recall these gauges read a differential between ground and the sender unit (I think that this is correct) but no matter what I think that the grounding is very important for correct readings.
Bill
 
Back
Top