• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Tips on Removing TR2 Steering Wheel/Head Unit

Share this page

Mark_Gibson

Mark_Gibson

Jedi Trainee
Offline
As I proceed to dismantle more of the car, it's time to take apart the steering column. I noticed that there are 3 small (read tiny) set screws that hold the turn signal head unit to the steering wheel. Any tricks on getting these out? The holes are so small, I can't get very much of a screwdriver in there to try and unscrew them. Also, it shows a special Churchill tool (more Brit tools named after him) to remove the steering wheel. My TR-6 had a nut that came off, and then the wheel just pulls off. Does this column shaft have some special taper that you need a steering wheel puller? Thanks for the advice...

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Mark - Use a very tiny screwdriver for the 3 tiny screws. They come out nicely because of the black bakelite plastic used. When you get further in, I use a large open end or adjustable spanner with a vice grips on the handle for more leverage to loosen the huge nut then I can pull the steering wheel off the splines.

Clive Elsdon in England has written an excellent piece how to do all this. I'll have to look up where I have this.

Check your personal mail on this forum.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A TS 27489 LO
 
Hi Mark I believe that tr3 and tr2 are the same on this and that being the case the little slotted screws can be very challenging. It is very important to have the exact size screwdriver and you might have to make one because I think the slot is a wide one on the screw and the whole is kinda narrow on the wheel. They are called grub screw and you can get them at Moss. I tried to buy some at the local nut and bolt shop where I live the ones they had were the right type screw, but to short. When you do finally get them out of the cast aluminum you will be glad and they will probably show some damage. One IMPORTANT thing after you get the screws out is to go to the steering box down under and make sure the wires can move as you pull the control head out.
George
 
Thanks for the advice guys..I think I'll need to take a trip to Sears to see if I can get a long handled, jewlers type thin bladed screw driver to work on those screws. I'll look in my mail for that article Don....
 
Hi Mark that is an excellent article that Don posted. In reading the article it mentions to pull the stator tube with the control head, and yes I think that would be best because the stator tube is often broken. In addition, you would not have to mess with the wires while they are still in the car. I have made stator tubes out of a straight stick of 3/8 industrial truck brake line. (Not a big job, just save the Chinese lanterns) You will see what they are when you remove the assembly. You can get a stick of brake line for about 8.00 bucks. In addition, and if yours is broken, the stator tubes are available in some catalogs, but have to be slightly modified to fit tr2 and 3.
Regards George
 
Thanks George. I'm still not having any luck removing the 3 set screws in the steering wheel hub. Once I get those removed, the rest of the article is quite descriptive. I'll check the stator tube for sure...
 
Aloha Mark,

You made need to use some penetrating oil to loosen the corrosion between the steel grub screw and the aluminum wheel hub. PB Blaster works good for me. The originals were slotted, but may have been replaced with an allen type. A jewelers screw drive maybe to small, a standard screw driver about 4 inches overall length should work. The thread pattern on the TR3 hub is standard machine screw thread, as I recall 8 x 32. Good luck and be patient.

Safety Fast,
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

The set screws have gotten their third PB Blaster bath this afternoon. I'll let it sit overnight and then try again tomorrow. The screws are slotted, so this must be the 1st time in 50 years anyone has tried to take this apart!! I'll keep y'all posted!

Thanks,
 
Sometimes a rap or two on the screwdriver will help break the threads loose. Just use caution.
Good luck
 
Liquid squirt anything is mostly fuel oil, only good after the part is loose.Get a bottle of mapp gas for your torch.Wrap bakelite in a wet rag, hold torch on the screw area for almost forever,it wont melt.Use the proper size screw driver,twist a little back and forth untill freed up.DONT ruin the slot in the screw head or you will have to drill out.Keep at it untill it frees up, it will.Before you guys start yelling at me for this method,I have done many this way.Its basically all I work on is totally rusted crap that has been sitting outside for years.Actually I just got running a TR3 that has been sitting out side since 1976.EVERYTHING was rusted solid,including the engine,trans was free, but clutch was stuck solid, as was hydrulics.Did it without pulling the engine apart.Car now runs/drives,altho not road worthy by any means.There are few substitutes for the heat wrench. TA DA.
 
I've managed to get 2 of the set screws out, using a hardened tip screwdriver. The 3d one has been dug up by yours truly to the point where the slot in the set screw is non-existant. I was wondering if there were any other tricks to get this last one out. The only thing I can think of is a very small drill and a small easy out to try and get it out. I really don't want to drill this out and retap it...Thanks for the advice...
 
Yes and hi Mark those little screws can be tuff. Anyway I would not use and easy out because if you break that off you have a bigger problem. If you have to just drill and tap back to the same size by drilling a small whole in the center of the screw and tape to the same diameter of the screw. The tap will most likely just fall into the old threads. But try every thing else first. If you have two of the screws out you might be able to gently wiggle the unit around and work the screw lose with a pick
George
 
I managed to get the stubborn set screw out by drilling the center and using a small easy out..thanks for your advice folks!!
 
Back
Top