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TR4/4A Tips on controlling heat coming up through shifter opening?

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tdskip

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Hi guys - even with the shifter boot in place I am getting a lot of heat coming up through the shifter opening. Anyone have some tips on how to better control that?

Thanks.
 
How is it getting past the boot? The boot should be nice thick rubber, actually a better heat insulator than the tunnel around it.

Stags actually use a double boot. There is an inner rubber boot that is more or less flat (with corrugations for flexibility) and then an outer leather boot. You could try adding something like that to the TR, but you'll probably need to make some holes in the tunnel for anchoring the outer boot.
 
TR3driver said:
Stags actually use a double boot. There is an inner rubber boot that is more or less flat (with corrugations for flexibility) and then an outer leather boot. You could try adding something like that to the TR, but you'll probably need to make some holes in the tunnel for anchoring the outer boot.
Click to expand...

The TR4A has the double boot (there are actually 3 parts, a lower rubber boot, upper rubber boot and the leather or vinyl gaiter).

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29131
 
tdskip said:
Hi guys - even with the shifter boot in place I am getting a lot of heat coming up through the shifter opening. Anyone have some tips on how to better control that?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Drive up here, 300 miles to the Northeast, and that heat will be appreciated. Tom
 
Ha.

OK I got the lower gear shift from Moss today and went to install it, and of course that opened up another question. It looks like the PVC tunnel has had its opening ovalled out. I just installed the lower seal but it wants to pop a lip out and I'm not sure it's going to seal properly.

Anyone use a sealing tape or adhesive to keep it in place?

Thanks!
 
tdskip said:
Ha.

OK I got the lower gear shift from Moss today and went to install it, and of course that opened up another question. It looks like the PVC tunnel has had its opening ovalled out. I just installed the lower seal but it wants to pop a lip out and I'm not sure it's going to seal properly.

Anyone use a sealing tape or adhesive to keep it in place?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

It may be pvc or another polymer like polypropylene. It's hard to get anything that will stick to any of the molded/extruded plastics and to the rubber. I've used a product called G-Flex with some success. The downside is the cost about ($20 I think) and the fact that plastic materials have to be "flame treated" (impossible to do on the under side without taking the tunnel off).
I've also made a patch from "ice shield" or that sticky window and door sealer, pretty Mickey Mouse though.
All things considered, I think I'd go for a new tunnel at about $100 I think.
Tom
 
Wrong answer Tom! Ha.

I am going to look around a bit at other ideas of securing it in place before ordering a new one since I want to get on with driving the darn thing, and to be honest was looking for an easier fix that than.

I'm not saying you aren't offering up a good idea, and to be absolutely clear I appreciate the response, I just want to try being creatively lazy on this one and see if I can make what I have work well. Grin.
 
tdskip said:
Wrong answer Tom! Ha.

I am going to look around a bit at other ideas of securing it in place before ordering a new one since I want to get on with driving the darn thing, and to be honest was looking for an easier fix that than.

I'm not saying you aren't offering up a good idea, and to be absolutely clear I appreciate the response, I just want to try being creatively lazy on this one and see if I can make what I have work well. Grin.
Click to expand...


Well that's what I usually do. Good luck. Tom
 
Creatively Lazy in my mind = duct tape :smile:

Cheers
Tush
 
M_Pied_Lourd said:
Creatively Lazy in my mind = duct tape :smile:

Cheers
Tush
Click to expand...

Well guess what, I drove her to Home Depot and picked up some reflective all weather smooth HVAC sealing tape and it seems to have done the trick.

And when I say "done the trick "what I mean is push all the heat back to my exposed emergency brake opening. Ha.

Thanks guys, just an extra note to make sure that Tom you know that I wasn't dismissing your suggestions I was just looking for an easier way than doing it right.
 
I used fibreglass matting and resin to fix any problems on my tunnel....you could do the same to decrease the opening size without removing the tunnel....glad wrap is useful to place over the resin if you need to support the resin until it hardens.
 
Interesting idea, thanks for passing along. I Think I have it solved at this point, but I have to say it is pretty tempting to learn how to work with fiberglass resin. New stuff to fabricate!

Thanks
 
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