• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Tips for fitting tub on TR3 prepared frame

Share this page

PatGalvin

PatGalvin

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Guys

After my engine startup follies, I took a two week hiatus to catch up on fall pruning and other home repairs. The antifreeze smell is starting to diminish in my garage. I feel my mojo is returning so I'm starting to plan my next conquest - fitting the tub on the frame.

Rolling chassis is prepped and almost ready for tub. Tub was blasted and epoxy primered so is pretty clean. I don't have any problem lowering this on the tub but how does one go about shimming and fitting the tub on the frame? I've not been able to find any info on this in any of my rebuild references.

If you can provide a few tips on the steps, I'd appreciate it. I'm going to fit the body, set my panel/door gaps, and then remove and paint all (under, over, inside, engine compartment, etc.).

Thanks much. Here's a few pics for your continued enjoyment.

Pat


liftingBody2.jpg


DSCN1456.jpg


IMG_7494.jpg


IMG_7865.jpg


IMG_6737.jpg


triumph006.jpg
 
Each car is different and can vary a little bit, so there is nothing definitive. Did you keep a record of what shims were at each mounting point?
 
Nope, we'll have to consider this mount virgin territory. After changing nearly every panel on bottom of tub, I doubt that any shim locations or thicknesses would be the same anyway.
 
Take a look at the mount kit illustration on TRF's website and use this as a starting point. The long rubber straps are a given so you can permanently mount them. After that, you need to mount all the body panels, doors etc, and check all the seam fits.

Then, moving, adding, subtracting shims here and there, you adjust the seams - pulling them open or closing them up. It's quite amazing how much you can change the panel seams with this method. It's a matter of patience - undoing, redoing etc.

Good luck...and keep the pix coming....
 
Pat: a couple of things that may seem obvious, but they are essential. Make sure the car is on a level surface, sitting on the tires and not on jack stands. We used an inexpensive laser level to check. When you tighten the bolts at the mounting points, do this gradually, that is move from point to point rather than tightening one point and then the next. You may find that the body shell will take some time to settle. This is normal, be patient. The entire procedure may require a few iterations. Good luck.
 
Pat ,beautiful chassis.Just curious,Is that the wizard radiator,and did you go with electric or some other fan?
Also is that a degree wheel on the crank pulley,and what belt conversion did you use.Thanks
Tom
 
Hi Pat,

Right behind you in the progress department.....just need to get the 6 into storage to give me some room in the garage to go on with the body repairs...

img_0591.jpg


What I plan to do is this. I did buy the body mounting kit from TRF and plan to use their diagram to place the pads/spacers initially. I then plan on dropping the body on the frame to work on the fit before I send it out to be painted.

Tom, I might have the same set up as Pat.

I am running a Wizard rad mounted with a SPAL puller fan and fan eliminator kit. Bought this set up from Art Lipp.

img_0312.jpg


Looking forward to your progress report Pat. Good Luck.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
It looks like a few of us in in about the same stage of restoration. Your chassis looks very nice. I can't tell for sure if the trans is installed or not. Before you put the car on it's wheels, you want to have as much of the total car weight as you can. Then the frame will relax and you can get started on the spacers. When I removed my body I saved all the original spacers and marked them were they went. The locations and amount of spacers was almost exactly as TRF shows. The only area of mine that seems to have a problem is small square tube angle piece the mounts to the inner fender. This may change when I get all the weight on the car. Insted of putting my car on its tires I use an old set of rims only and set them on wood blocks. It gives you some more room to work without the tires being mounted. As mention above fit and refit is the order of the day with this stage. It takes time. I even use sand bags to help to the weight in the car. Take your time and it will look great.
 
Hey Pat!
There area couple of us here in Brentwood that would not mind a drive up to give you a hand on setting the tub or any thing for that matter. Just PM me when you need a hand. 160 up to Sacramento is a nice drive.
 
Pat, as I recall when I did mine I had an A frame hoist and four or five guys around to help me. Had to guide it in and around skinned up some paint on the frame and the steering column. But nothing major.
SWITBO supervised.

Dick
 

Attachments

  • 22958.jpg
    22958.jpg
    102.1 KB · Views: 382
You don't need a hoist to hold and lower the body onto the frame. Here's how we did mine on New Years Eve in 1989.
 

Attachments

  • 22959.jpg
    22959.jpg
    32 KB · Views: 381
Thanks to all for responses. I'm thoroughly enjoying the thread as well.
Dan, help from the Brentwood contingent would be most appreciated and it would be great to get to know you guys. I'll PM you and we can see what dates might work for the initial fitting of the tub.

When I removed this, I just lagged a large eye bolt into the garage rafter and used a come-along to lift body off frame. Expect that would make install very easy, similar to Dick's A-Frame. It's not heavy - I move it with my two teenage sons.

Pat
 
Great pix!!! Back to the original question,IMHO having done several 2's and 3's. the 4 main pads are a no brainer but you should not be less than 3 on any one out rigger. The reason is that the front and rear mounts may need to pull down slightly for proper panel alignment.This is most critical in the front.Often the apron will fit but the hood will not have room.Test assembly is the key here!!
MD(mad dog)
 
Pat,

Let me know if you need some muscle. "Strong backs, weak minds," and all that.

Mike
 
Hi Guys,
just a beginner here... will a TR 3 ('57) tub fit a TR 3A frame? My "new" tub is pretty good, but the frame
may be toast, so I need to know what to look for.
Thanks!
Oldman
 
In a word, yes. It will fit on a TR2 frame also, but there were some running changes made such as beefing up the shock mounts.
 
How much can you expect to alter the door gaps by adding/removing shims? My left side rear door gaps are open about 3/32" at the bottom so the door needs to move forward at the top but my door to front fender gap is good. My right side door gaps are good. I also gather that the frame should be loaded with the engine and trans before you start this process. My car is a 1960 and was disassembled when I got it. Thanks for your help.
 
John- what is the top gap at the rear of the door? 3/32" doesn't seem like much - is that the difference between top and bottom gaps? If you add one or two shims on each outrigger pad area on that side it should spread the door width a bit if needed.
 
Back
Top