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I could not get my brakes to bleed. A couple of you recommended I purchase the Eezibleed system. I used it for the first time yesterday. Wow, I wish someone would have told me about one of these before. It made quick work of the brakes. I am still having a heck of a time trying to bleed the slave cylinder, however. I can't see well that close up, I have a heck of a time getting enough room to turn a wrench, and I can't even get in there with my fingers to push on tubing so fluid doesn't go all over the place. Does anyone have any tricks in bleeding the slave cylinder? Any help would greatly be appreciated.
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Tips for bleeding Bugeye slave cylinder?
- Thread starter ichthos
- Start date
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Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
Hopefully you're getting to the bleeder screw through the access port in the passenger footwell...
The_architect
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Kevin,
I glad you asked first. My day bleeding a clutch slave will surely come.
Charlie
I glad you asked first. My day bleeding a clutch slave will surely come.
Charlie
jvandyke
Luke Skywalker
Offline
I get it through the access hole in the footwell too. I put a bend in a cheap wrench to help with the angle. Tube to a jar on the floor pan. I would recommend a speedibleeder type valve to replace the original bleeder nipple. Can be had an autoparts store cheap enough. SB3824 is the speedbleeder number but I got an off brand 2 pack for $9 I think it was. Same as the ones in the front disc calipers. Dorman 12701.
Here's the old post on it.
old post
Here's the old post on it.
old post
Jeff_Sigrist
Member
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I know this is an old post, but this issue seems to come up frequently. A member of our car club with a midget was having an issue bleeding his clutch. He was going to make a pressure bleeder, but I had just read of a procedure used for some GM vehicles and suggested he try it since he already had a mity-vac.
1. Locate a rubber stopper which will be a tight fit for the clutch reservoir. Lowes or any hardware store should have these.
2. Drill the stopper and insert a solid tube sized for hooking to a mity-vac. This does not need to be below the clutch fluid level.
3. Top up the clutch reservoir.
4. Replace the reservoir cap with the rubber stopper.
5. Connect the mity-vac and apply 15 to 20 inches vacuum.
I don’t know how long the vacuum will need to be applied. My friend just left it while he was doing other things, but I don’t think it should take long.
6. Remove the vacuum assembly and top up the clutch fluid.
To me this sounds pretty simple and does not even require opening the bleeder. It worked for my friend and his clutch pedal was finally correct.
One caution. Be sure you get a large enough stopper. I think he said 1-5/8”. The first attempt was a bit smaller and when the vacuum was applied it sucked the entire stopper into the clutch master reservoir.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
1. Locate a rubber stopper which will be a tight fit for the clutch reservoir. Lowes or any hardware store should have these.
2. Drill the stopper and insert a solid tube sized for hooking to a mity-vac. This does not need to be below the clutch fluid level.
3. Top up the clutch reservoir.
4. Replace the reservoir cap with the rubber stopper.
5. Connect the mity-vac and apply 15 to 20 inches vacuum.
I don’t know how long the vacuum will need to be applied. My friend just left it while he was doing other things, but I don’t think it should take long.
6. Remove the vacuum assembly and top up the clutch fluid.
To me this sounds pretty simple and does not even require opening the bleeder. It worked for my friend and his clutch pedal was finally correct.
One caution. Be sure you get a large enough stopper. I think he said 1-5/8”. The first attempt was a bit smaller and when the vacuum was applied it sucked the entire stopper into the clutch master reservoir.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
I always bleed the upper end of the clutch master cylinder first. I find that most of the air in the system gets trapped at the high end of the line.
Have someone pump the clutch and hold it down.
Loosen the clutch line where it goes into the clutch master cylinder.
You will ususally hear some air escape (but it also makes a mess, so have plenty of rags on hand).
I usually do this 2 or 3 time and then I go to the slave cylinder (this greatly reduces the bleeding needed at the slave end)
Have someone pump the clutch and hold it down.
Loosen the clutch line where it goes into the clutch master cylinder.
You will ususally hear some air escape (but it also makes a mess, so have plenty of rags on hand).
I usually do this 2 or 3 time and then I go to the slave cylinder (this greatly reduces the bleeding needed at the slave end)
Jeff_Sigrist
Member
Offline
Paul,
The vacuum should pull the air from the fluid. You would not gain anything by pulling out fluid. Understand that I have not used this procedure myself, but I know it did work well for the one person I know who tried. I will be changing out all my fluids this winter, as I plan to drive to Reno for MG2011. I never had major issues bleeding the clutch as long as all the mechanicals were correct, but I will likely try this just to verify how it works. If someone else has the opportunity to try this, I would love to hear the results.
Nial,
I also always bleed at the master cylinder first. I find it almost impossible to bleed the air out by the pump/release method without doing so.
Thanks,
Jeff
The vacuum should pull the air from the fluid. You would not gain anything by pulling out fluid. Understand that I have not used this procedure myself, but I know it did work well for the one person I know who tried. I will be changing out all my fluids this winter, as I plan to drive to Reno for MG2011. I never had major issues bleeding the clutch as long as all the mechanicals were correct, but I will likely try this just to verify how it works. If someone else has the opportunity to try this, I would love to hear the results.
Nial,
I also always bleed at the master cylinder first. I find it almost impossible to bleed the air out by the pump/release method without doing so.
Thanks,
Jeff
dfwip
Senior Member
Offline
Thanks for the explanation Jeff.
Kinda figured that is what you would say.
Interesting approach.
Despite all the posts over the years to the contrary,
I have never had trouble bleeding the clutch.
I am a bit curious of the method you mentioned,
and am going to play around with it a bit.
Thanks again.
Paul
Kinda figured that is what you would say.
Interesting approach.
Despite all the posts over the years to the contrary,
I have never had trouble bleeding the clutch.
I am a bit curious of the method you mentioned,
and am going to play around with it a bit.
Thanks again.
Paul
Legal Bill
Jedi Knight
Offline
The vacuum will reduce the pressure on the fluid in the line and int the reservoir. Under the lower pressure, trapped air bubbles have a better chance of escaping up to the top (the reservoir). I'm not sure this will ork on all trapped air as it cannot pull a bubble down from a high point to a low point in order to let it rise up to the reservoir. The entire system would have to be downhill with no upward turns.