• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Timing

Share this page

vping

vping

Yoda
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Probably very simple but I think the timing is off. I got it started and think that it was giving me trouble starting becasue of the points gap.
Running very nice & very quick response. Let it idle for some time to clear out any cob webs.
It runs a little rough at idle, but I cannot determine if idle is ok because of it being converted to negative ground and the tach has not been re-calibrated. (its bouncing and with the slightest acceleration it goes to 7K)
I have run on when I turn her off. If this is the timing, give me the qiuck & dirty for setting this. I have several books and I am not 100% sure.
So far so good.
 
Sorry for the lag-time. First set the timing mark/pointer of the crank at #1 10° BTDC (iggy OFF, please!) by hand. Some folks use fourth gear and "rock" the car to position it, I usually (in neutral) grab the fan, thumb pressure on the belt and turn it by hand. Points should be gapped already to 0.015" (about the thickness of a matchbook cover if you've no feeler gauge). Slack off the lock screw on the dizzy base, connect a 12V test light between the coil-to-dizzy wire and ground. NOW turn the ign. on to power the circuit. The spot you're looking to put the diz in is when the test light ~just~ comes on. If you can turn the diz to make it just go out, then bring it back to just light, you're good to go. Lock it down, reassemble and it should light off with ease. Oh, and you don't strictly need it to be on #1 TDC. If you're "half-way 'round" and the rotor points to #4 it will not matter. As long as the crank pulley mark is at 10° BTDC you can use this method. One of the "hidden benefits" of static timing our four cylinder LBC's. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

HTH!
 
If I am looking at the front of the pulley, 10Âş is roughly pointing to the equivilent of 11 on a clock? Is that agood assumption?
If so static timing seems quite easy.
I think I adjusted the points correctly. I turned the pulley until the lobe on the dizzy cam fully opened the points. gap was like .1" initially. With an .015" feeler gauge in place, I loosened the mounting screw amd the gap closed. I tightened the screw. Sound right?
Spark at the plug was better but I think I should close it a bit as I have it at .032" (which the book recommends) It is running nice at higher rpm just at idle its a bit shakey.
 
Did you not find the pointer on the underside of the engine? That's where to set the 10° BTDC crank position. Big pointer is TDC, each smaller one is 5°.
 
Ahh yes! Upon closer inspection I have located 1 large & 3 small pointers. I cannot find a notch in the pulley. There is a hole type of depression in the pulley but it is about 3/8" in diam. (this is for blancing though. right?)
According to book there should be a notch on the pulley. Kinda close quarters under there so I may have to look harder.
 
Never saw one without the notch. Look real good and run your finger around the edge. When you find it put some chalk on it.
 
Nice! Found that 5Âş pointer is bent forward a bit but I can see the 10Âş. I found the notch. Real small.
 
Best to highlight it with chalk or a paint stick. Makes it MUCH easier the NEXT time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Out standing. Yep, paint stick good if available.
 
OK. Static timing is set. This method seems fool proof althought it is a bit of squeeze to get to the dizzy bolt.

Still some run on after turning it off.
 
Old gas or less than 93 octane?

I've found an offset 7/16 box-end (12 point) that works well for that bolt.
 
Back
Top