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Timing light?

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vagt6

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I need a new timing light, mine got smashed in a recent move.

So, since my Midget's timing mark is under the car, it would seem like a good idea to find a timing light with longer leads that will reach under the car, no?

Do those of you with timing marks on the bottom of the crank pulley need longer timing light leads? Or do most standard timing lights work okay?

And, any suggestions on good timing lights?
 
I personally found the standard length OK but I'd get a couple of opinions since it may just be that the one I use has longer leads than average....
 
Thanks, Doug, that's pretty slick. It's a 74' 1275 (bored to 1380) that's been tweaked a bit.

I'm probably going to buy that kit, seems a no-brainer. For $20 you can't go wrong.

And, I'm starting another thread about how I might go about tuning this engine.

More later . . .
 
I just got a cheap light from Harbor Freight, $30 with advance knob. The leads just barely let you get it down to the ground, if I use the solenoid for + and stretch 'em. Set of jumper cables would help but I need to put a top pointer on, that would help MUCH more.
 
I'm out to the garage this morning as a matter of fact to redo the remote timing scale I previously installed. I was close but not exactly right on when I installed previously. Jeff at Advanced Distributor make a nice add on kit although getting to the best bolt to use for the remote pointer means pulling the radiator to get access to the bolt. No big deal to do but takes a little bit of time to get done.
 
Check out ebay. That's where I got mine. It's an older Sears unit, nice long leads, inductive pickup. I forget what I paid, but, cheapskate that I am, it couldn't have been much.
 
I watched ebay for quite a while, it seems most advance equipped lights, used or new, go for better than $25, the Macs and stuff go for way more. I finally just got one at HF as I needed it. As often as I use it it should last a while. $29.95
 
Thanks, guys.

So, what's the advantage of going to a "digital" timing light?

Seems the old kind would do the job, no?
 
A number of the Equus digital lights have a built in tach so everything is in your hand at one time. I don't own one of those lights but I always thought it would be great to see the advance and the RPM using a single hookup. The downside is (from memory) they were selling for around $100.
 
One tip on installing the remote timing pointer. I had a difficult time getting the remote scale to stick to the harmonic balancer. One I got it positioned, I coated the plastic scale with a coat of Helmsman Clear, Gloss spar varnish. One or two coats protects the scale and seals it against the Harmonic Balancer. It's not going anywhere now.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
I'm out to the garage this morning as a matter of fact to redo the remote timing scale I previously installed. I was close but not exactly right on when I installed previously. Jeff at Advanced Distributor make a nice add on kit although getting to the best bolt to use for the remote pointer means pulling the radiator to get access to the bolt. No big deal to do but takes a little bit of time to get done.
Click to expand...

Jim, does it involve removing the radiator and all the hoses, or just unbolting it and moving it a bit with everything attached??
 
You can't get at the bolt you want to use for attaching the pointer without pulling the radiator. At least I couldn't figure out how. Hey the radiator needed to have the coolant changed anyway and 4 bolts gets the radiator out. You could also move with things attached I think. Just harder to do. It took an extra hour maybe less to get it all apart and back together.
 
Getting my radiator in and out was one of the hardest things I've had to do yet. Fishing those stupid little bolts through all those panels blind is darn near impossible. I ended up putting a bolt in from the engine bay side going forward, then nutting it, only did two.
 
Two bolts for the radiator is just fine. Mine's been like that for years. Done right (WRONG) it should only take longer to drain the radiator than it does to put in in or take it out..
 
I emailed the guy at Advance Distributor and he indicated that it is NOT necessary to remove the radiator in order to install the new pointer.

He said a "good rachet wrench" is all you need.

Hmmmm . . . :rolleyes:
 
I don't think a ratchet wrench would slip over the bolt (too thick). However, with patience you could install it without removing the fan/radiator. Take the fresh air duct out of the car remove the alternator and it is doable.
 
Wish I would of thought of doing it that way but once you learn the trick of removing radiator it's really pretty simple. Key is getting bolts undone for the first time in 30-40 years. After that fairly easy to get in and out. I did get remote pointer reinstalled nad car retimed. Bugsy must still have some carb issues as timing is right on and point gap right on but missing and sputtering under load. I need to empty dampers and clean up carb pistons. Last time I refilled with 3 in 1 Oil and I think that's way too heavy. Either that or Bugsy needs t ostumble over to the local LBC Shop where some "magic hands" can be laid upon him. I need to get him back to starting with no efforts and never having any reliability issues. He ran like a top for 7-8 years with never, never an issue until fuel pump crapped out a few months ago and since then issue after issue trying to find the magic to fix some wierd stuttering and missing issues.

Have gone through replacing: plugs, wires, Cap, new rotor from Advanced Dist., points, carbs got tuned and balanced and he ran sweet for several days and then the stuttering and missing once again. Frustrating. Oh well keeps my brain busy problem solving.
 
Crud in the fuel?
 
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