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Timing light timing versus static test lamp

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Daimlerdb18

Daimlerdb18

Senior Member
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This has probably been covered in other posts, but....when the static test lamp is used to set the timing a 7deg BTDC where will the timing mark show using a timing light? I set the timing using the lamp, but the timing light is showing a good 20 deg retarded???? Can this be right? Advancing the timing to show 7 deg btdc by timing light causes backfiring and hard starting. Just curious.
 
IMHO...

Use the "static timing" method, if you must, only for getting the engine to run after doing some major work. All other timing re-sets should be done with a strobe light, particularly a dial type, in conjunction with an easily seen and accurate tachometer, or better yet a dial type strobe with an LED read out including the tach.

Rule of thumb starting point is about 33 degrees at about 3500 revs, vac line removed. The pulley mark should bounce around VERY little, if it does much at all the contact breaker plate is probably worn.

Jack
 
Thanks Jack,

The pulley mark is steady. I have a tach and dwell meter to go along with the timing light. I'll remove the vac line and get the revs at 3.5K and start monkeying around with the timing.

thanks again!

Bruce
 
Hello DB18,

you have hit on a very good point, you set the timing by the strobe and it runs poorly, whether you time statically or stroboscopically you still may need to adjust the timing to suit your engine and the fuel you use. Set for best running by test driving.

Why your lamp shows such a difference is puzzling, normally the strobed reading would show more advance, not retard as the distributor is starting to advance, particularly if your idle is high. What the strobe is really useful for is checking that the mechanical advance is working. Always ensure that vacuum advance or retard lines are disconnected when using a strobe light (Sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs.)

Alec
 
Jack has a good point, and i have used that method myself a few times ( set for max advance at specific RPM ) But having said that, the method i use now the test run method...........Gas, altitude, state of tune of engine all come into play. Advance it unti it pings, then back it off a degree or two.............that should be optimal for your engine....
 
HI PiMan, sounds a bit like he didn't disconnect the VAC when using the Light.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Hey Keoke, too right! It's been nearly 30 years since I've used that light (Sears, still works great) and I neglected (FORGOT) to remove the vac line. After experimenting with the timing, trial and error, or trial and pop, bang, sputter, method, the timing seems to be OK and the A runs pretty good. Now on to the mysterious SU carb adjustments. If I get better at monkeying around I may join a circus...
 
-----------------------------------Keoke---------------- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
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