Tightening the idler pulley bolt on a 1098

[Fred_Maves]

Last fall the bolt on the front of the crankshaft (idler pulley) vibrated off. It continued to churn around between the cross member and the pulley on my `59 Bugeye. It sounded like the engine was falling out. I had to have it towed and have not found time to repair it until recently. I removed the engine mount bolts and transmission bolts and have been able jack the engine up just enough to access a 1-5/16" socket. I now have a new bolt and flat washer sourced from World Wide Auto, Madison, WI. It is not at all clear how to secure (lock) the washer. There is a depression in the pulley on one side. It seems to me that merely pressing the washer into this depression would do little to secure the bolt. There is, however, keyway notch in the washer, but the woodruff key does not extend to make this of any use. So, I am thinking that lifting the opposite site of the washer to engage one of the hex facets. I plan to use blue lock-tite and some significant torque (unknown lbs.).

Any thoughts,
Fred

 

[Gerard]

Knock it down into the depression for some additional insurance the washer won't spin, but the main thing is to bend over one side over one of the flats on the nut. The best way I know of doing this is to make sure one edge is angled up enough to be able to get a hold of it in the jaws or some large adjustable jaw, long handled pliers; lower jaw on a flat, upper jaws gripping the edge of the tape washer. Pul the top jaw towards you, gradually working the tab over the flat of the nut.

However, many people opt to use Loctite and skip the washer. Just make sure the threads have been well cleaned with a solvent like lacquer thinner or paint degreaser first or you'll be wasting your time. Torque is 70 ft lbs.

 

[Fred_Maves]

Thank You Gerard. I got the same advice from my parts supplier. I'm good to go now. Thanks again.