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Tie rod ends, how to remove?

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drooartz

drooartz

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Working on replacing my rack boots today. First problem is lots of paint over the lock nut and threads. Which direction to turn to loosen it? I'm assuming it would be counter-clockwise if you were sitting on the rack looking at the tire.

Second question is how to get the tie rod end loose. I assume (again) that you take off the cotter pin and castle nut and it should drop out of the steering arm. Then you can unscrew it from the tie rod itself.

Do I have this right?
 
You are correct. However gitting them of of the stearing arm is the trick, but then you may get lucky.

Usualy a lot of swearing and some brute force with a hammer is required. Support the stearing arm well with something big and metal, leave the castle nut on the tie rod loosly, like up 5 threads, then smash it. Remember to support the stearing rod well so all the force is taken on the joint ONLY.

Yep you will prob destroy the tie rod but then maybe you won't.
 
What about hitting the steering arm on the end with a big hammer. Old timers swear by this technique. They claim it makes the hole oblong and the TRE falls out. It has only worked for me occasionally.
 
Hello Drew,

the better way is to get a tool to free the taper on the ball joint to steering arm. The better type is similar to a 'G' cramp but with a cutout to slide around the pin of the ball joint. They will not 'drop out' as you hope.
Before you do anything, mark and measure the distance the track rod ends are fitted to the rack tie rods. This will give half a chance of getting the tracking back to what it should be. However it is sensible to get it checked after you have completed the job.

Alec
 
Drew, you don't have to remove the tie rod end from the steering arm. Mark or measure everything like has been discussed previously, pop the jam nut loose, and turn the tie rod, unthreading it from the end.
Jeff
 
Amen! If you're not replacing the TRE joint, the "counting turns" method works. No sense in trying to get the joint loose. I mark mine with a scribe line from the joint center as I've outlined previously but any of the suggested methods will work. Plenty of Blaster and patience will be as important.
 
Didn't realize it could work that way, but now that you say it, it makes sense. I've given up for today, couldn't get that jam nut to move at all. I'm going to wait until I have a little more time to work on that nut.

I'm hoping to be able to take a short drive this weekend, as my sister is in town and I'd like to take her on a 10 minute spin around the block. I'm thinking I can just tape up the boot and check the fluid level in the rack. That shouldn't really cause any damage, should it? Again, this is just for a short around town spin.

Also, to clarify, the jam nut should turn counter clockwise when looking towards the wheel.
 
It is a right handed thread. Turn it clockwise when the end of the bolt is pointed towards you (this is the end with the TRE).

Make sense?
 
To remove the jam nut, pull the boot back to expose the flats machined into the steering rack shaft. Use the biggest crescent wrench you can get to fit on the flats, and then use a 1"(?) wrench on the jam nut. Tonight you should squirt some penetrating oil/diesel fuel on it after you use a propane torch or high temp heat gun to warm the area. The cooling metal will draw the oil into the joint. That way you will have the best chance of success tomorrow.
 
You wont hurt the rack even if there is no level of grease left. As long as parts look wet you are fine.
 
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