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Thread Locker on Shock Bolts?

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jman15

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Saw another post on shocks leaking oil and requiring tightening and it got me thinking about whether I should use thread locker (Locktite Red-Medium?) on the bolts holding the shocks to the frame. It is common for us to check these bolts with some frequency or prior to a trip and it is also common for them to need to be re-tightened. So I'm thinking this would be a good idea and don't see a downside to it. Your thoughts?

FYI, only planning to use thread locker on the shocks since they are subject to a lot of constant shocks :joyous: (couldn't help myself there).
 
On the front shocks, I use Grade 8 flat washers under Grade 8 bolts doused with blue threadlocker and torqued to 35lb-ft; haven't had one come loose in many tens of thousands of miles. There's a 'simple physics' explanation: the same clamping force is applied over a greater area of the shock 'foot' with the flat washers (split washers dig into the soft metal which relieves tension, allowing the shock to work loose). Didn't work on the rear shocks though, probably because the bolts are under shear instead of tension; I'm currently using split washers but have some other type of fancy lockwasher--forget the name--I'll install when I get a chance.
 
I'm using NordLock washers under my front shocks for the last couple of years. No loosening.

screenshot.1939.jpg
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Steve, Have you noticed if the Nordlocks--that's the washer I was trying to recall the name of--left any impressions in the whatever soft metal the shock bodies are made of?
Click to expand...

Bob - haven't had them undone for a long time and was not concerned at the time with wear-and-tear from the lockwashers. I believe the shocks are aluminum.

Any impression can't be any worse than the original split-ring lockwashers with their barbed ends. Those gouge out a little every time you undo them.

FWIW, I'm using belleville washers on my intake manifold studs, carb studs and rear axle pumpkin studs. No loosening there either.
 
jman15 said:
Saw another post on shocks leaking oil and requiring tightening and it got me thinking about whether I should use thread locker (Locktite Red-Medium?) on the bolts holding the shocks to the frame. It is common for us to check these bolts with some frequency or prior to a trip and it is also common for them to need to be re-tightened. So I'm thinking this would be a good idea and don't see a downside to it. Your thoughts?

FYI, only planning to use thread locker on the shocks since they are subject to a lot of constant shocks :joyous: (couldn't help myself there).
Click to expand...

Wouldn't advise Red. Use Orange or Blue - you can undo those without heat.
 
More than 15 years ago when I rebuilt my shock towers I reinstalled the shocks and used blue thread locker on the threads. I use to think about retorquing them but never did because I didn't want to disturb the thread locker. After all these years they have showed no signs of loosening. I check the front end for quality and tightness every spring but have never put a wrench back on the shock bolts. Shocks have not moved and nothing indicates anything loose.
 
HealeyRick said:
Good video on the anti-loosening properties of different washers:

Click to expand...

I'm glad I watched this video; I had no idea Nord-Locks need to be stacked (looks like the pack of 10 I had to buy to get 8--I'll probably lose at least one--will be worth it).

I'd like to think I'm smart enough to know by looking at them but, you know ...
 
Interesting video/advertisement. My takeaway is, "We're all gonna die!"

Seriously though, since no Healeys (or any other cars?) were made with Nord-Lock washers, and since mostly the cars stay bolted together, other means of keeping bolts and nuts connected are obviously working. Assuming that it's not simply because by now they're all rusted together, I'd be inclined to think that a failure to adequately torque them when installed is the major culprit. Maybe followed by using incorrect or damaged/worn hardware upon reassembly.

Faulty conclusions?
 
Over the years, I've had plenty of Healey friends/acquaintances who've had loose (or stripped) front or rear shock bolts.

If one wants to look original, one could use the split ring lockwasher with threadlocker.
 
I had tried all sorts of "solutions" before someone on the forum suggested the Nord-locks. I would get a clunk in the rear after a couple of months. Part of the problem was getting a tool into the thigh space. available. The Nord-locks have been on for 4 years and have not loosened and caused the once familiar "clunk". I intend to use them on the exhaust system the winter.
 
Thanks Steve. Will drop the idea of using the Red thread locker and go with either orange or blue. Or perhaps reconsider it all and go with the Nordlock approach. Sounds like you've had good luck with the Nordlock washers and based on what others have said it seems like an even better solution. Come spring I'll check out my options and price the Nordlock items. Plan on doing a brake job on front so will do all at same time.
Thanks
Jim
 
Bob_Spidell said:
I'm glad I watched this video; I had no idea Nord-Locks need to be stacked (looks like the pack of 10 I had to buy to get 8--I'll probably lose at least one--will be worth it).

I'd like to think I'm smart enough to know by looking at them but, you know ...
Click to expand...
do you have a part number you used when ordering them?
thanks
 
Editor_Reid said:
Interesting video/advertisement. My takeaway is, "We're all gonna die!"

Seriously though, since no Healeys (or any other cars?) were made with Nord-Lock washers, and since mostly the cars stay bolted together, other means of keeping bolts and nuts connected are obviously working. Assuming that it's not simply because by now they're all rusted together, I'd be inclined to think that a failure to adequately torque them when installed is the major culprit. Maybe followed by using incorrect or damaged/worn hardware upon reassembly.

Faulty conclusions?
Click to expand...

IIRC, 'routine' maintenance for Healeys--and all British cars, probably--per the manual involved checking/tightening many of the structural fasteners, including shock bolts every couple thousand miles (along with greasing all grease-able fittings, filing fuel pump points*, changing out distributor points and spark plugs, changing out coolant, etc.). Anything that reduces the maintenance burden with more modern solutions is a good thing for me (I currently maintain 8 cars/trucks and 2 ancient tractors).

* Norman Nock said it was part of, IIRC, the 10-thousand mile maintenance to remove the fuel pump, clean the points and re-adjust the diaphragm.
 
I like to use Loctite Blue on pretty much everything, including bolted connections with lockwashers. It`s easy, and (compared to the man-hours etc.), cheap. Doug
(and I can`t resist: I`m `shocked`that there have been no more bad plays on words since jman15`s opening query. I guess that there`s just too many Ăąps and downs`in suspensions systems and their `threads`on the Forum...
 
Good grief! `Damper`! I`m jealous. Doug
 
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