thread lock

[fmichaels]

is there any rule of thumb for when to use and not to use thread lock? if it were up to me, i would simply rebuild using spec'd torque values and common sense when torque values are not avail.

 

[jlaird]

Torque values are determined by the size of the bolt or nut. Check the front of Haynes for example.

 

[fmichaels]

jack, i'm talking about when and where to use thread locker. i know about the torque values, but in some cases, it is recommended to use thread locker. thanks

 

[jlaird]

You are on your own with that. Nothing was used by Old man Healey.

 

[fmichaels]

that's what i thought.

 

[DrEntropy]

There are times when "Better Living Through Chemistry" is NOT a bad thing... Head studs (block end), brake caliper bolts, various suspension attachment points, to name a few. I'm a believer in bending the "originality" bough where my safety and/or my wallet are in question. Mostly I use LocTite 271 (Red).

Just watch where you put that "Green" LocTite! It don't let go! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

 

[jlaird]

Of course Doc. I use some red loctite as well. But darn little.

 

[fmichaels]

thanks doc ... a little advice goes a long way

 

[spritenut]

Minis had a couple dozen lock tabs in the engine, that was before Loctite. Now loctite is better than bent tabs.
I use it on flywheel bolts, all suspension and brake bolt ons.
screws on the back of the gauges and anything else I don't want to come loose.
On the otherhand, Neversieze! for everything that does not get loctite.

 

[Westfield_XI]

I always get confused....is the red locktite actually a blue fluid? I know that the red juice is for permanent locking, the green juice is for bearings and sleeves and the blue juice is for locking parts that will eventually be taken apart.

 

[fmichaels]

blue is blue

 

[10musketeer]

what's the difference between the blue and the red?

 

[Sarastro]

The blue stuff simply prevents the screw or nut from loosening easily. The red stuff is "permanent," which means, in practice, that you're pretty well committed. You often can get the thing off, once you've used the red, but it's tough. It dries fast, too, so you don't have much working time. I don't know how it affects torque specs; probably doesn't if you tighten the nut or bolt while the stuff is still wet.

Just remember that neither is supposed to work with stainless steel or aluminum. In reality, the blue works so-so with those metals, but the red really doesn't. You can get a primer which will allow it, though. I haven't tried that yet, however.

By the way. both come in red bottles, which may be the source of the confusion. When we say "blue" or "red," it's the color of the fluid, not the bottle.