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Those Dastardly Valve Guides...How to Remove

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Down to the last thing on the TR3 head before it goes to the shop for cleaning and testing. How does one remove the valve guide in the head? Drive em out with a drift? Or is there a special tool that is needed. I don't want to break anything at this point.


Bill
 
usually these are pressed out in a hydraulic press.if you go and start whacking at them they will flare and you will never get them out. also the shock of hitting could possibly cause head cracks.
rob
 
Bill, just let the shop press them out. They are going to have to install the new ones, correct? It'll take them 10 minutes to remove them all.
Jeff
 
My engine has some kind of split valve guide and I do not have a machine shop that can do that. (I live in the middle of nowhere). I do have a press and making a jig is no big deal, what I am thinking of doing is removing the valve springs and just lap the valves by hand. Where the valve stem contacts the lifter it seems that the stem has an offset grind to turn the valve is that correct
Thanks
Jim new guy on the block
 

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I am at a disadvantage here in the USA with a side valve as no one has any specs on this engine and the machine shops that do engine work are about a 200 mile round trip and when asked all I get is never heard of it. I am going to remove the springs and hand lap the valves to clean them up and be happy. When I pulled the engine apart the mains looked good but the babbit was flaking on all the rods and again no one will touch one of these, I thought the Model T guy's might but nope so now I have to buy new rods, I passed on a nice Pinto 2000cc with very low miles and I kick myself although when doing an engine swap that will mean cutting and welding which I can do but I decided to go the way I thought was the simple way.
 
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A piloted drift punch that fits in an air hammer will make quick work of the job . good for installing the new ones as well . I got one from an automotive machine shop --but it wouldn't be hard to make one if you heated the temper out of an existing air chisel and turned it on a lathe , then re-hardened it
 
I have a press, but the ancient high school shop manual I often reference says to drift them out with a hammer. I fashion a drift from and old valve and tap them out. I think pressing on the head can imposes high stress that can cause cracking, while a hammer is rapid, and imposes lower loads. The weight of the cast iron provides inertia to allow the drift to work.

I install the guides in the same way...although my machinist says he prefers to install them himself.
 
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