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This may seem like a stupid oil change question...

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livinginthepast

livinginthepast

Jedi Trainee
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...but I can't believe the differences from book to book on how a canister filter assembly should be setup with respect to the various rubber O rings, felt seals, etc.

When I pulled mine apart (61 948 BE) for the first oil change since I purchased the car last summer, I found nothing except a paper filter, spring and a pressure plate that sits on top of the spring inside the canister.

My VicBrit catalog shows inside the canister a steel washer, a felt washer and a circlip in addition to the spring and the pressure plate, although they call it a "paper filter" pressure plate (which implies that there is a felt filter pressure plate or none at all for felt filters??)

On the external side, some books show that a seal should set between the head of the center bolt and the canister, some show this as felt, some as a rubber O ring. Some add a steel washer to this mix (well, not for the purolater version, which has the 'collar').

My filter setup has the canister with the 'lip' at the bottom point of the canister. There was no collar, nor was there a washer or seal between the head of the center bolt and the canister housing.

Will someone please tell me what the optimal setup would be for this filter assembly so that I can hopefully stop some of the oil hemorrhaging from this part of the motor? I wondered why my car leaked like heck from the canister. I guess I know why now.

Thanks!
BillW
 
Best move you can make is to convert to a spin on. These canisters are a nightmare and the filters themselves are awful.

With a conversion you can use the excellent K and N filters with a bolt on the bottom and you will be changing your oil in like ten minutes instead of spending hours fixing leaks and having a crappy filter ruining your engine.
 
The cars I have had (and still have) with the canister filter I always had the best luck avoiding leaks by using the old seals (as long as they are still useful - not cracked or mangled).

When putting in new seals you need to have at a minimum one for the bottom where the can sits and one up at the top where the bolt goes in.

The rest is up to the specific setup you have.

Being careful not to over tighten the bolt through the center and over squish the big round seal at the bottom.

Being careful to make sure the place where the big seal sits is very clean - no old bits of gasket or crud in there.

I've usually (from memory) had the one where there's the filter and a metal plate that sits on top of it that has a dip in the center that faces down towards the engine and a spring on top of that and the bolt goes through with a rubber seal between the head of the bolt and the top of the can.

Don't over tighten.

Did I mention not to over tighten?
 
My 1098 came with the OEM canister type. A nice spin on adapter in the parts box. Let's put this on me thinks....wonder why it isn't. It leaks like a screen door on a submarine is why it wasn't on there. Luckily I found the proper square section gasket that was missing and I'm pretty sure it doesn't leak anymore, kinda hard to tell, something still leaks from somewhere but at least filter changes are a lot easier. Maybe this year I'll hunt down my leak(s)....probably not.
 
Okay! Removed improvised oil line (rubber hose) and replaced with original steel oil line/banjo fitting. Oil change complete - one adjustment after the fact and no drippage - first time since I've owned the car. Replaced generator. Had one small stupid mistake moment (fan belt in FRONT of fan pulley - horrible racket on start - but quickly put it back together).

I took car down to get coffee/donuts and it ran like a charm. A cool, beautiful northwest morning made the trip all the better. I'm addicted.
 
Heh, I should hope so.
 
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