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TR6 This can't be good. TR6 front suspension rebuild

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ichthos

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I am using Dale's front rebuild article. I just got through intalling the verticle link. The spindle axle turned nice and tight. I then torqued the bolts to the specified values. I then I released the spring compressor. Now the verticle link is very difficult to turn. I used a 3' pipe just to see if it would still turn. It does, but but with great effort. I don't see what if anything I could have done wrong. Is this normal?

Kevin
 
This is a "not well thought out" theory, but maybe the tension of the spring is causing resistance that will be relieved when the car is off jack stands and the spring is once again compressed by the weight of the car? This is just throwing out the first thing that came to my head. I'm sure someone who actually knows what's going on will chime in soon...
 
Do you have the tie rod end attached or is the vertical link free standing? Is the entire front end off the ground? Is the bind in both directions of center?
 
I was thinking the same thing as you did, John - but I am just not sure. The steering rack and antisway bar are not on the car at the moment, so no the tie rod end is not attached. The verticle link is free standing. The entire front is off the ground. The bind is in all directions. I have nothing to compare this to since the front end suspension was shot to begin with and I have never done this before. Any ideas? I don't want to procede if I am just going to have to take it apart later. I don't want to start taking apart the passenger side either until I know I have done the driver side correctly.

Kevin
 
What, if anything, in the rebuild have you replaced with new parts? If using a new trunnion, did you check for any debris inside that could be causing the bind? Did the trunnion screw freely into position when installed? Did you install the seal between the trunnion and the vertical link? What lubrication are you using?
Have you compared it to the passenger side looking for any differences? Keep the passenger side together to use as a working model.
The stub axle should have moved freely from side to side prior to spring installation. It firms up when compressed by the spring, but is still movable by hand.
 
I just completed my front suspension rebuild last week. Don't despare.... wait until until you drop it back on the ground and then the springs will be under load. The wheels will turn much easier.
 
Elliot has it right. Unlike the TR4's the 6's do not have a stop to limit movement. With no load on the suspension, the upper ball joint will bind. Once back on the ground and loaded, things will work just fine.
 
The verticle link moved very nicely before I took the tension off of the spring. it was when I released the spring compressor that the verticle link was almost frozen. I can move it but only if I put a 3' pipe over the stub axle to move it. I pretty much had to replace all of the usual parts such as the bushings and pivit bolts. I also had to get new springs and trunions. The trunions were clean and did move smoothly on the verticle link when I screwed it in. I did install new trunion seals. I filled the trunion about 1/3 with gear oil before installing it. I greased the ball joints. I was thinking of taking apart the verticle link and unscrewing the trunion one turn. I will probably end up ruining the upper ball joint in the process. Any other ideas?

Kevin
 
The trunnion should only be unscrewed enough to give full turn side-to-side movement, no more. You're probably OK there.

But you might have bound the ball joint when you torqued it - try backing off the nuts a couple of flats and check again. The initial ball-joint torque sets the washers then I backed mine way off and tightened until it bound, then set to next flat off.
 
ichthos said:
The verticle link moved very nicely before I took the tension off of the spring. it was when I released the spring compressor that the verticle link was almost frozen.
Click to expand...

That's because when you released the spring compressor, there was no longer a load on the springs. Get it on the ground and then try it.
 
Hi Kevin,

I've been pondering your vertical link issue all morning.
I don't believe you have a problem. But then, I'm not a
TR6 Expert mechanic so I could easily be wrong. My theory:

If you could easily turn the stub axle by hand BEFORE you
installed and decompressed the coil spring.......

then the trunnion is probably installed properly and so is the
Vert link to the ball joint. Peter K makes a good point with
backing off a flat.

The partially, uncompressed coil spring still has tremendous
energy stored in it. It is pushing DOWN on coil spring pan and
pushing upward on the ball joint. That energy tightens the
ball joint and tightens the vertical link threads against the
trunnion threads; making it difficult to rotate the stub axle.

Place a small jack under the front edge of the coil spring pan
and raise the spring pan a small amount. Install the new shock
absorber inside the coil spring (you may have to raise the
coil spring pan a bit.) Tighten the new shock top and bottom.

Just for fun, try to move the stub axle now. It should be easier.

Now jack the spring pan up about an an additional 1 inch. The
stub axle should move even more easier. Now, gently lower the
jack and proceed with installing the steering components.

I don't think you have a problem but the Triumph Experts will
jump in real fast and correct any blunders I may have stated
in my theory about your why your vertical link is not yet
smooth.

Don't forget to put a torque wrench on all your fasteners....
after the car is operational and you have driven it around
the block.

best regards,

I hope I have not offended anyone
by posting technical info in the Triumph forum.

dale
 
Thanks for all the help everyone. I will try backing off the ball joint nut and also installing the shock absorber when I get home tonight. I will try the rest of your suggestions first, Dale. I am hoping not to have to put everything together before this problem is solved. It looks like I will have to put everything together and try all of your suggestions when I get home tonight. I do not have the steering rack as I had to have that rebuilt by TRF - it should be getting here shortly. Will it still do me any good to put it together and sit it on the ground if I do not have the steering rack yet?
Kevin
 
Tinster said:
I hope I have not offended anyone
by posting technical info in the Triumph forum.

dale
Click to expand...

Tinster,
Although I am the Sargent Schultz of auto mechanics, I am never offended by anyone's mechanical ideas or theories. I am glad that many of you are willing to try and to share. Someday I may again become daring and do more work on Fagin. In the meantime my mechanic keeps undoing what the DPO hath done.
 
I forgot to mention that point too, David. When you try to help someone on the forum it is always a risk laying yourself out there, Dale. People that are rude or condescending to others on the forum just results in less of a pool of people to talk to. I always appreciate different points of view. Much of what I have learned is from non-mechanics that can put things in words I can understand. Dale, it is your articles (and personal advice) I have used to rebuild the rear suspension and now the front suspension. I am very grateful for your help.

Kevin
 
As Dale said, if it was all turning freely before the spring was installed, it can't be too far wrong. Certainly I remember when I rebuilt the steering and suspension on my TR3 with all new parts it was quite stiff for a couple of hundred miles. I suppose all of those new parts need to bed in.
Good luck.
 
DNK said:
Kevin- Must be a slow day in class today.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your support, Don.

I'll crawl back under my rock now
and stay over in The Pub where I
AM an Expert in Tarpon and Snook fishing.

d

orville.jpg
 
kodanja said:
ever eat a pine tree?

ever lick a river?

ever tarpoon a snook.....!

book-gibbons.jpg
Click to expand...

Awesome! Now I know I really do fit in here!
 
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