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"Third" release bearing in 6 years!

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Russ Austin

Russ Austin

Jedi Warrior
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Noticed some whineing while driving the other day, slightly depress the clutch and it goes away. Ahhhhhh another release bearing (throwout bearing) this will be the third one I've replaced in 6 years. are these just not made very well or what!
 
Are you pressing them onto the sleeve yourself or having it done by a machine shop?

If yourself... Are you using a vise or a press? Are you rotating the bearing as you press?
 
Hi Russ,

That's no fun!

Can you give us any more detail?

Do you know what brand TO bearings you have been using?

Did you install yourself? If so, did you use one of the special tools to install, that rotates the bearing while pressing it onto the carrier to help prevent warping it?
 
I had this problem on some my spridget, because I wasn't replacing the input shaft bearing when I changed my clutch. I do not know how you TR guys work, but it maybe worth looking into. I was getting so ticked, constantly changing my clutch.
 
Hi Russ I feel your pain. I once had a vehicle that had a very bad return spring on the pedal in the cab and the weight of the pedal caused the same problem by engaging the clutch just a little.

Sp53
 
I have been useing a vice and have not been turning the bearing as I'm pressing it togather, I will have a machine shop do it this time!
 
Russ,

The RHP brand that is considered the standard replacement had a quality control problem within the past 5 years . They claim the problem is solved but I'm sure old inventory is still being distributed by most of the vendors.
I would strongly suggest the Gunst or Gunst style replacment. I have used this product with excelent results. The bronze carrier & beefy bearing make a nice combination that should last for many thousands of miles.
I usually put the carrier in the freezer for a few hours & then gently tap or use a vise to install the bearing with out a fuss or damage. A press should not be needed. Never use heat or excessive force.
 
Not sure the Gunst is an option on a TR3.

FWIW -- I seem to recall that TRF sells a bearing that is already installed on the sleeve. A few more bucks but might be an alternative.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Not sure the Gunst is an option on a TR3.
I seem to recall that TRF sells a bearing that is already installed on the sleeve. A few more bucks but might be an alternative.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Geo,

You're right on both counts.

The Gunst is not available for TR2/3/4. It only works with the TR4A and later diaphragm-style clutch. I checked with John Swauger about this a little while ago.

And, yes, TRF sells (properly) pre-installed TO bearings. It's a little pricey to buy the assembly, but pretty much assures correct installation. TRF also sells a tool for under $20 that makes it possible to do it yourself and re-use your old TO carrier.

I'd be concerned most machine shops wouldn't do it right, either. They would probably just use the old "clamp it in a vise" method, too. That's okay with many TO bearings, just not with the TR's. A TR-savvy maching shop might install it right. I'd bet most others wouldn't.

I agree with several other thoughts already mentioned, regarding things to check to insure the entire clutch mechanism is working properly:
- Check/replace return spring on pedal.
- Check that the slave cylinder is giving a minimum of 5/8" movement at the push rod. If not, try bleeding the hydraulic system, but the master and/or slave cyl. probably need rebuilding or replacement.
- Check release shaft bushings for any side-to-side play and replace if necessary (They're pressed into the bellhousing. TR3 uses the longer, greasable type, which is good.)
- Check that the dreaded taper pin is good and solid, not broken and allowing a little play, as it often does when it fails.
- Be sure the slave cyl. clevis pin connection is in the center hole on the release shaft lever, not the upper or lower holes. Also check that the pin and hole aren't worn and sloppy.
- Check the adjustment at the slave cylinder push rod annually and set per the manual.
- Give the cross shaft bushings a shot of grease annually.

If all is good and the TO bearing is properly installed, the TR2/3/4 clutch mechanism is usually good for many years and maybe up to 100,000 miles of normal driving. It's not as easy and smooth to operate as the TR4A and later clutch, but it's much more reliable and worry free.

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