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THIRD BLOWN HEAD GASKET! please HELP!!!!!

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I used to blow head gaskets on my TR3A. I must have done this about 4 times in the first 80,000 miles. When I restored the car from 1987 to 1990, I also rebuilt the engine. I had the head skimmed to make sure it was level and instead of the original 1/2" high nuts for securing the head, I used what the race guys use. These nuts are grade 8 but measure 3/4" high. This lets me torque them a little more. I've driven another 94,000 miles since 1990 and never had a gasket blow.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/1919/ppuser/4127
 
I think I've got it!!! We had a few rainy days here in NY and I had some time to think. When I was ordering new head studs, I realised that two of them were longer than the other eight. Then I remembered the mechanic removing the engine lift bracket and saying I didn't need it. Well, the 2 long studs belong on the manifold side closest to the firewall. I'm thinkin that the 2 nuts were bottoming out on the threads, although they were torqued correctly. Head and block are straight. I'll keep you posted and thanks for all your advice-
 
Sigh, it's always something dumb isn't it.
 
I reassembled the Midget{TAZ} as advised. HOSPITAL CLEAN.
I took it for a few short runs it was ok. Then I took it for a blast at about 60 on the parkway and she held up fine. I have a tiny coolant leak from a mediocre hose clamp, but tomorrow's another day. Thanks for all your advice. I can't wait to go for a nice long Sunday drive.
 
Good deal. Glad you got that sorted out, just think how nice it is to know everything is clean and right.

Now when you buy hose clamps buy a few extra so you have em in the drawer for next time.
 
I'm so glad you said that as thats what I have done.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I just read your links on the MG side and may have changed my mind. If you haven't yet pulled the head you should try TIGHTENING those head nuts to see just where they are NOW (you will need a "bendbeam" type torque wrench to read this) but I will bet that those two (or more) studs are not at 44 ft-lbs but probably at 20 to 30 and either the threads in the block are destroyed and pulling out or the studs are not grade5 but may now be grade "crud" and are stretching and not holding torque.
Bill

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree, you might want to purchase a "cleaning tap" it doesnt really cut the threads, but cleans the threads.
 
Too late Hap. I was advised to use locktite red on the head studs. I took TAZ {tasmanian devil}for an 80 mile run today and all seems to be well. One thing I learned. It's easier to mate the the intake and exaust manifold on the head first. This eliminated the hassle of trying to tighten the near impossible 2 bottom exaust manifold nuts. I'm running a webber dgv carb with a stock exaust manifold right now. When I grab a set of headers, I'think I'll switch out the bottom www.EDDIEJELLEY.COM /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Oh boy, red locktite. Any way glad your problem is solved.
 
This is NOT the end of the world... Racing engines usually get "annual teardown", or at least a "regular rebuild" with some frequency. This one will see years of street use (hopefully), and when the time comes it'll take some propane and a stud sprag.
 
Jack,
Hopefully, I'll move on to either a Bugeye or TD before I ever remove another headstud on "Taz". Now, it's onto complete brakejob and tie rod ends. Yahoo more greasy hands! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif
 
Brake job, tie rod ends, dirty hands. Wait just a min, parts are supose to be clean and preaty. LOL
 
[ QUOTE ]
Racing engines usually get "annual teardown", or at least a "regular rebuild" with some frequency.

[/ QUOTE ]

Annual? I wish the intervals were that long! Six or seven weekends is usually two or three sets of bearings, seals, and gaskets.
Of course it's merely a precautionary measure.
Ask Tim Hollister how fast we can change a head gasket in the paddock!
Jeff
 
I can well imagine... point bein' you guys are into 'em A LOT.

I'll hazard a stab and say between 15 and 25 minutes, as the longest. Pro'll faster on a day you're "motivated".
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'll hazard a stab and say between 15 and 25 minutes, as the longest. Pro'll faster on a day you're "motivated".

[/ QUOTE ]

That's probably pretty close, Doc. But, back in my younger and speedier days, (Yes, "the older I get, the faster I was.") I did a clutch in a Bugeye in a timed 12 minutes. Of course, I had a lot of help, and air tools were involved. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff
 
12 minutes Key to Key? WOW

mark
 
Best time for a clutch in a B for me (no airtools, single-handed) was 1.75 hr. With a "crew" (who knew the drill) and air it was a *tiny* bit less than an hour... 12 MINUTES is kinda astounding... any wounded?!?! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
CHEATER-CHEATER!!!!

Niiice, BTW. Very nice.

...All I ever got were a couple of GREEN Nomex "chicken dance" suits and some "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" pins. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
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