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Tips
Tips

Thinking about learning bodywork/paint

do not use a flat grinder on your car.
flat grinders are a metal working tool.
don't use any tool that scratches or heats the body panel.
 
But an Angle Grinder with a Flapper Disk makes short work of paint and rust.
 
I use forced fresh air breathing system. Most of use are exposed to plenty of carcinogens each day thanks to better living through chemistry. I prefer not to give myself an extra loaded dose.

Truthfully, I'm not sure I could stayed focused long enough without the fresh air apparatus. I get pretty light headed from the solvents.

Fred, I didn't realize you were an oncologist. My wife is a pharmacist that now lurks around corners in the oncology offices trying to peddle drugs. :wink:
 
Hey guys, like I said it's your health so do what makes you comfortable.
But, no, I'm not personally concerned at all. I deal with these issues on a daily basis, and my knowledge of chemical and physical carcinogenesis is as deep as it gets.
However, I certainly could be wrong.
The best evidence that this is overblown hype (imho) is not the science, it's the culture. Again, look at all the siily warnings and ridiculous tort system we live with. It's wisdom that should inform you as much as specific knowledge.
I have no interest in trying to change anyone's mind, just putting out my reasons for my personal decisions.
 
Btw if you disagree with me and want to avoid the trivial exposure to isocyanates, you must use a self contained fresh air breathing apparatus
 
Does bodywork have to be directly on bare metal, or does it go over the epoxy primer? Reason I ask is no reason to have it abrasive blasted, sealed in primer, then have to sand the primer back off to skim it.
Getting it ready for bodywork is obviously the first step, that is after fitting the panels. If I need to blast it and leave it raw, then skim it, prime it, and continue blocking it, well I guess I just need to know the correct order to get the ball rolling.
 
:iagree: True but if you have to do any significant metal work you will probably want to remove the epoxy. Of course, that's usually not a problem. I really do like the epoxy primer for several reasons. As for the angle grinder to remove paint, it may be fast but really risky unless you seriously know what you are doing. The heat generated can quickly cause all manner of distortions. A decent air-driven DA will work almost as fast and a whole lot safer.
 
The only reason to sand through epoxy primer is for welding.
 
Modern filler over primer is no problem.
If you have panels to patch in, i like to flange them and plug weld with panel adhesive between the plug welds.
 
So, I am a little confused about what to use to remove paint on my bugeye.

I am getting one of these for Xmas:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D28402K-2-Inch-Small-Angle-Grinder/dp/B000BM6BMI/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

Will this (with a proper paint removal disc) work to remove paint without damaging panels?

Should I just it to grind down welds (assuming I decide to buy a welder and do patching myself) and get a decent orbital sander for the paint removal?

I don't have an air compressor (yet) so air tools are not an option for now.

Cheers!
 
Like I said, I tried a large number of options and the paint removal tool I linked is the best method I found. It won't damage or warp the panels, and makes a good surface/tooth for the epoxy primer. It is also quite inexpensive. You can get a similar paint removal disc that fits a drill, and possibly fits your angle grinder, but this won't be the same (although the drill mounted disc is helpful as an adjunct for tighter areas).
The paint removal tool turns at a lower rpm than most circular grinders/polishers/sanders and this is optimal for paint removal without overheating the metal.

Fred
 
TulsaFred said:
Like I said, I tried a large number of options and the paint removal tool I linked is the best method I found. It won't damage or warp the panels, and makes a good surface/tooth for the epoxy primer. It is also quite inexpensive. You can get a similar paint removal disc that fits a drill, and possibly fits your angle grinder, but this won't be the same (although the drill mounted disc is helpful as an adjunct for tighter areas).
The paint removal tool turns at a lower rpm than most circular grinders/polishers/sanders and this is optimal for paint removal without overheating the metal.

Fred

Noted. Thx!
 
I read through this, couple notes I haven't seen mentioned.

Before you start stripping with a sander or grinder use a good (from a body shop) wax/grease remover, you don't want to grind wax or silicone into the surface.

There a modern fillers (bondo) that don't absorb moisture, regular filler does, don't know about the bondo gold somebody mentioned. If you are using appreciable amounts of filler (more than final skim coating) particlarly over welds or seems or somewhere water may get in you may wan to use a filler that is moisture resistant. At least that is what I have done, figure it can't hurt and might help 5 or 10 years down the road.
 
I enjoy reading this blog about bodywork. just my two cents worth based on 30 yrs. of my experience. Yes you can apply a good quality body filler over unsanded epoxy primer but its best done within the primer's "window" of being fully cured and impervious to solvents. I use Dupont DP 40 which has a 7 day window. The solvents in the filler will hook into the epoxy best ,giving optimum adhesion. After 7 days , lightly scuff the DP 40 entirely with a red scotchbrite pad and recoat , wait a day and apply filler. I use Evercoat's Rage Gold Extreme for filler. I would never apply filler over unsanded and cured epoxy primer, it may not adhere well enough for durability. My thoughts about safety: You rarely ever see an old body man. If you are using something that makes you cough , light headed , or gives you a head ache, fair warning. At least have a respirator with replacable charcoal filters hanging around. I always were one when I'm sandblasting, machine sanding, mixing paint, spraying paint. A urethane headache is no joy. I love the $50 paint job ! I don't think the 67 E type that I'm re finishing this winter would agree however.
 
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