Things you NEED to know before an HVDA Conversion

[Dwilsny]

(I cross posted this from my original post on 6-pack, figuring some people here may find the information useful)

I have recently completed the project of changing out my TR-6 4 speed w/ A-type, to a toyota W58 Transmission... I wanted to share some experience with the community before you consider taking on such a project and know beforehand what to look for and expect...

In truth there are about 8 different variations of this transmission with a few of the more popular styles listed here:

As you can see there are several different placements of the shifter assembly. When using Hermans (HVDA) conversion kit it is important you try to locate the one closest to the left which is out af an 82-85 Toyota Cellica (Supra) with the ma61 (Mk II) chassis... These are becoming incredibly rare and those that DO exist in most cases have an excess of 150k+ miles on them. The more modern versions will fit but require some alteration as you can see later in this post.

With the cover off you can clearly see what Toyota refers to as the [shift lever housing] which is where the units vary over the years.
This picture is showing the correct Shift Lever Housing.

Another Pic showing Bob Danielson's Transmission:

Unfortunately I didn't know this information prior to picking up a W58 on e-bay... My transmission was out of a 87 (Mk III) Supra...
My shifter assembly looks like this:

And with cover removed:

Here in lies the dilema... Just to keep in mind everyhting else fits... the bellhousing connection, all the other supplied parts are ok... it is the Shift lever housing that is the issue...

There are several solutions to this...

1. Adapt the transmission but use the toyota shifter components
Problem: Doing this sets back the shifter position about 2-3" requiring custom interior work as well as the shifter being located in an uncomfortable position.

2. Get another transmission (sucks but it is a solution)

3. Fabricate (or cut/weld) the existing shift lever housing to the correct position.
Problem: This is a forged steel lever, you really need to make sure you do this correctly or it could result in failure.

4. (What I am doing) Toyota can order the shift lever housing you need it is Part number: 33502-14100. Unfortunately this little piece is $135 and you need to remover the tail housing of the transmission so factor in another $30 for the 04331-20050 gasket set.

Transmission: $100 Ebay
Shipping: $100 from LA to NY
HVDA Transmission kit: $1767 (price is going up soon)
SPEC Alloy Flywheel and Stage II Clutch and Pressure Plate: $680
Shipping from CA to NY: $66

Add on top of that the part I need $135 +$30(gaskets)(directly from Toyota) you can see this is not a cheap project. Especially when you do not factor in things like these extra parts. Fortunately I purchased a used Shift lever housing from Man-Trans (https://www.mantrans.com) for $48 shipped.

For those of you not familiar with or new to the community Bob Danielson's Webpage should be bookmarked as it is so painstakingly detailed all the work he has put into his car with great "tutorial" and "how to's"

A good link resource on how to take apart the transmission incase you need to change or modify the part:
https://www.celicasupra.com/w58teardown/csw58.html

Other references:
https://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html

https://alldrivelineparts.com/transmissions/tw56cp.html

Complete Toyota W58 transmission service manual:
https://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MT&P=1

Complete Toyota Electronic Parts Catalog for W58 (MkIII Supra)
https://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/chassis.aspx

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_Transmission#W58

Feel free to ask if you have any questions or would like more info. This is about 2 weeks worth of collective research after finding out I had the wrong shift lever housing.

A few more things to add...

If you are planning to use an Aluminum flywheel in your transmission swap... you MUST tell Herman prior to ordering as there is a very special bronze bushing you will need for this application...

A few more W58 tid bits... I believe in 1989 the W58s started using Steel sandwhich plates over Aluminum because they are slightly stronger (but rust bad)... Don't be confused by this as the earlier W55's (truck transmissons) also used the Steel Sandwich plate...

 

[DART]

Dane- thanks for all that GREAT info & links. I am putting a w58 in my SP250, and it came without the shifter. Toyo claims new ones no longer avail & I've had no luck finding one on-line. Now I have more places to look. THANKS AGAIN!!!!!

 

[Dwilsny]

Dart,

If you are simply looking for a shifter you can get so many different types from places like Ebay and several performance shops...

There are widely available short throw shifters for any variant of the W58...

You will most likely have a tough time finding a stock one but short throws (which is better anyhow imho) are easy to get.


Cheers,

 

[martx-5]

THanks for all the info. I already did this job on my TR3, and wound up getting the correct box on e-bay for $140 + $70 shipping. Everything worked out according to Hoyle. No problems.

Dane- thanks for all that GREAT info & links. I am putting a w58 in my SP250, and it came without the shifter. Toyo claims new ones no longer avail & I've had no luck finding one on-line. Now I have more places to look. THANKS AGAIN!!!!!

Dart, I have the shifter that came with my W58. If you want it, just pay for the shipping and it's yours. Below is a pic. It's 12 1/2" long overall. Send me a PM if you're interested.

Edit: BTW, this shifter came out of a W58 that looks like Bob Danielson's pic above.

 

[DART]

Thanks Art, that is a nice offer. I sent the pic to my restorer and will let you know whether he thinks it will work. I appreciate the responses to what has been a months long quest of mine. Never thought to search for forum posts since so few of us have Daimlers.

 

[TR3driver]

It's been a few years ago, but Herman once showed me an adapter he was working on that I thought was supposed to solve this problem. What he showed me was a machined block that replaces the Toy shift housing, and a billet steel piece that bolts to the Toy shaft in place of the original linkage. I guess that didn't work out?

 

[fad64b]

Dane, I ran into the same problem with the shifter and easily mounted the block that Herman sends with his kit over the arm after I cut the arm short. Stupid me I did not take any pictures. If you send me a PM with a phone # i will call and try to better describe what I did