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Thermostat ugliness & temp range recommendation

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tdskip

Yoda
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So, taking your advice for things I should do while the car looks like this;

Bugeye11-24-094.jpg


I pulled the water outlet once I got the inch thick blue sealer off it;

bugeyecoolingsystem12-10-09.jpg


Which exposed a thermostat which looked like this;

bugeyecoolingsystem12-10-091.jpg


bugeyecoolingsystem12-10-092.jpg


bugeyecoolingsystem12-10-093.jpg


And the inner housing;

bugeyecoolingsystem12-10-094.jpg


bugeyecoolingsystem12-10-095.jpg


What temperature range thermostat would you recommend for the new one?

Would you replace the water outlet housing? It's pretty corroded on the neck and has lots of lumps on the inside from corrosion as well that can't be helping coolant flow.

Thanks!
 
I would. I don't have an A series, but I'd say 180 deg. There are differnt thoughts on this (in other engines). Some will go to 195 for fuel economy, other 160 for spririted driving. Someone with allot more knowledge of these engines will chime in. Whatever you do, flush all of that crap out good !!! I'd change the studs too, possibly to bolts.
 
In the northeast, I had to put a 195 degree thermostat in to ensure the car reached proper temperature.

it had a 180 degree in, and in the winter I could never get the car up to proper running temperature, and I had no heat. swapped in the 195 degree, and the car warms up much quicker both in the summer and winter, and I have nice hot heat blowing on my legs in the winter.

from a few article I have read, you need you engine to reach proper temperature to burn off contaminates in your oil, which would otherwise build up when you engine never reaches that proper temperature.
 
Time to replace those studs with bolts. A whole lot of prep work with PB Blaster for a few days, try tighten first and then loosen the studs. On my 1098 they all came out without any issues.
 
I'm using the standard 180 from VB no complaints. You can also get new studs and housing from them. I did go through 3 new housings before I got one that did not leak from pin holes in the casting. I would pull the lower left block plug and the heater contron and flush the heck out of that block and radiator before putting back together. Be careful after installing new studs and slipping the housing down that everything is nice and flat and don't tweak the studs too much. Oh the lessons learned!

Mark
 
Good consideration Mark - thanks for posting that.

Guys - are the new castings all suspect you think, or was mark just extra lucky? Would tracing down a NOS/used one be a better idea?
 
No comments (nor knowledge) about the castings but if you are looking for a thermostat the common Chevy ones for the 6 or 8 cylinders ('60's thru '80's and beyond) fit perfectly and are easier to get (at your local parts house).
BillM
 
Billm said:
No comments (nor knowledge) about the castings but if you are looking for a thermostat the common Chevy ones for the 6 or 8 cylinders ('60's thru '80's and beyond) fit perfectly and are easier to get (at your local parts house).
BillM
Click to expand...

that is just what I did !! $5 for the gasket and themostat
 
Wow! Ug-lee!

Really need to clean that stuff out. The thermostat opening temp is pretty much irrelevant until you do. Since it's in the engine, it's probably in the radiator too. So everything will need to be purged and cleaned.

But to answer your original question, mine is 165 degrees, only because that's what the guy who restored the car put into it. I'd suggest using something a little higher, as it seems to take quite a while to warm up completely.
 
walshja said:
Billm said:
No comments (nor knowledge) about the castings but if you are looking for a thermostat the common Chevy ones for the 6 or 8 cylinders ('60's thru '80's and beyond) fit perfectly and are easier to get (at your local parts house).
BillM
Click to expand...

that is just what I did !! $5 for the gasket and themostat
Click to expand...

Have a part number or reference by chance?
 
Sarastro said:
Wow! Ug-lee!

Really need to clean that stuff out. The thermostat opening temp is pretty much irrelevant until you do. Since it's in the engine, it's probably in the radiator too. So everything will need to be purged and cleaned.
Click to expand...

Nasty, eh? On my honor this didn't happen on my watch. LOL.

How would you guys clean this, just flushing with water wouldn't seem to cut it here.

I had a spare OE replacement radiator recored, so I'm good there.
 
tdskip said:
walshja said:
Billm said:
No comments (nor knowledge) about the castings but if you are looking for a thermostat the common Chevy ones for the 6 or 8 cylinders ('60's thru '80's and beyond) fit perfectly and are easier to get (at your local parts house).
BillM
Click to expand...

that is just what I did !! $5 for the gasket and themostat
Click to expand...

Have a part number or reference by chance?
Click to expand...

I use to know all that crap off the top of my head. "They're all the same" 1957 to whenever they quit the SBC...which I can't remember that either.
I've got the HP one in mine, cost $12 but is visible better made.
 
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