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The Trouble with Trunions

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I

ichthos

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Sorry, more questions on my 69 TR6. I posted an earlier thread on removing the bolt from the trunion. It was suggested that I just get new ones. I figured since I had nothing to lose, I drilled some more, heated it, and was able to knock the bolt out without damaging the trunion. I checked, and it fits snug into the bottom of the threads on the verticle link. The hole the pivot bolt fits into is still nice and tight. The only thing I am not sure about is the surface on either side of the trunion. I sanded it lightly to show the wear. Is this wear acceptable, or am I out of luck and in need of replacement? I can see now why every one warned me how expensive a front end rebuild can be. If I do need a trunion replacement, can someone offer me a source? I have seen a wide variety of prices, but only TRF states theirs is forged rather than cast. The others do not say. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Kevin
 

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From the description and photo, Kevin, it looks like you could reuse that one with confidence! I'm impressed the horizontal through bolt hole isn't "hogged out"! As long as it screws onto the vertical link without "wobble" I'd say USE IT AGAIN!!

...and thank the PO. Apparently it had seen regular grease treatments. :thumbsup:





<span style="font-style: italic">EDIT: $50 each and "OUT OF STOCK" Don?!?!

Phooey. Use the originals.</span> :wink:
 
Doesn't look that bad to me. If all is tight, the wear marks where you sanded it should make no difference. New washers and bushings will take care of and cover the wear.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] I checked, and it fits snug into the bottom of the threads on the verticle link.[/QUOTE]

When installed on the suspension, the vertical link does not extend all the way to the bottom of the trunnion. One way to check for wear, is to back the vertical link off the bottom by one or two turns.

That said, the recommended method to check for excessive wear is to have the entire suspension assembled, except the spring, then see if there is movement. My first check (above), did not show any significant movement, but when I installed everything then tested, I had to wait another ten days for new ones from TRF, and a new vertical link from Moss.
 
Quite possible, Ray. The thing will wear only at the place where it pivots on assembly. About a 90* arc, as close to one turn from "tightened" as installation allows.

Threading it onto the link and backing it off to "alignment" with where it would be when installed, THEN giving it the "Jiggle Test" should show if things are good or sloppy. Done clean and "dry" too.
 
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