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So after last nights flatbed debacle I fill her up, fix the vacuum leak in the middle carb and go for a drive.

It's hot out.

I get maybe 4 miles out and then it starts sputtering... No power... Dies...

Oh no, not again I think. Lift the hood. See this little gem (attached).

I *wonder* what my problem could be.

Hint - it runs fine when it cools off. I should have done this myself.

Oh and does anyone have a picture of how it is SUPPOSED to be run.
 

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If I remember right, the fuel line is a hard line that is routed around the engine. It does not need support so it is not tied to anything except for the bracketry around the engine. There is a soft line that connects it to the carb hardlines but it is only a couple inches long.

Good Luck
 
As crj7driver said, it should be a hard line from the fuel pump around the front of the engine above the water pump and then to a short rubber line before the hard line that dellivers fuel to the carbs (which that hardline is attached to the carbs with short pieces of rubber line ). The only 'bracket' is a loop that holds the hardline away from physical contact with the engine and away from the fan belt. The loop is held in place by the top water pump bolt if memory serves.

It's not too uncommon for these 'loop brackets' to go missing or the whole hardline to be tossed. I've seen some pretty mangled ones. Others also choose to re-route the fuel line in order to try and keep it cooler.

I'll see if I can post some pics when I get home tonight.

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Oh my... what a DPO thing to do.

On some site somewhere (MGs I think) someone showed a way of doing this so it wasn't so susceptible to heat.

They still used the cable tie, but had an inch long piece of small hose to route it through and act as a spacer to hold the fuel line off from the other hose. I think they used a couple a few inches apart to keep it from moving around too much. Maybe its some use to you, until you sort it out properly....
 
Hi Alan,

You might be able to solve the problem by sliding a heat protective/reflective sleeve over the fuel lines. Some of those come with Velcro fastening, making them easy to install without disconnecting the fuel line (or brake line or wires, both of which are also good to protect from radiant heat in some circumstances).

Of course, a little distance from any heat sources would help, too. Perhaps you can reroute the hose in some way, or maybe just make a clip of some sort that holds the hoses well apart.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Remember my little post about double checking everything? It's sad that you would have to do this, but this is real life not the imaginary world of complete auto repair.
 
Alan,
The big issue with running rubber fuel line in that area is you are dangerously close to some moving parts, like the water pump pullery and fan belt! One slightly moved hose or a popped fan belt and you spray the engine compartment with gasoline. Not a good thing. Run a piece of steel fuel line from the pump (if you are using electric pump, same thing applies) and find yourself one of these little funny shaped clips that fasten to the top bolt of the water pump housing and secure the steel fuel line, well, securely. As the others have said, at max you should have about 2" of exposed rubber line from the end of the steel line to the triple steel line. I bought a piece of stainless 1/4" pipe to run my line, dresses up the compartment nicely.

Bud, this is an accident waiting to happen. Tend to it now.

Bill

ps, I would also put a spring-loaded clip on the rubber hose going to the triple line. Never did trust rubber hoses on barbed connectors.
 
Attached is a shot to the original set up on a 73 TR6
 

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I got a piece of brake line. Cut to fit, bent it under the car and followed the cross member - same route as the brake line to the rhs front wheel.

Much cooler. Much safer. I just have to put it up on ramps to clip it in place tomorrow. And Bill - I have screw clamps for both ends of the flexible hose. No way am I trusting it to a press fit.

Whats really got me upset is the fact that I saw it is leaking oil like crazy out of the back engine plate. I'm starting to lose my sense of humor about the work thats been done.

The fact that I havent driven more than 6 miles without the car dying on me might contribute to that though...
 
I'm really sorry that you're going through this heartache. Completely uncalled for and just not right. I'm surprised you're as cool as you are about it, but then again "It's Back!!!", which is much better than "it's still there".
 
Here is a good shot of the 'loop bracket I was describing ealier. The tube is actually a bit longer than it appears here as I used a long piece of rubber hose to also insulate the metal line that close to that manifold heater hose.
FuelLine5.jpg



As to the 'leaking oil like crazy out of the back engine plate'. The rear oil galley plug would be my first suspect. Espcially if it is really pouring out. If that is the case then the tranny, clutch and flywheel have to come off. There should be an access hole in the engine plate though. Regardless, it's not good or acceptable. When there has been that level of work doen the mechanic should have done a lot of running in to whiddle out those details that you now have to worry about. Most of these sound like mistakes from rushing.

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He has clearly rushed. There are a whole raft of little things that need fixing. Individually none are a big deal, all taken together they are really annoying. I was in "drive" not "fix" mode.

I had it up on ramps earlier to fix the fuel line across the crossmember. When I backed it off there was a pool about 12" round - after 15 mins. Luckily its not that bad when its on the flat.

Better news is that I think the reroute of the fuel line has fixed the vaporization problem. I'll do a final check tomorrow to confirm.

Now if I can just get rid of the flat spot in the carbs from 1000-2000...
 
When I got my TR6 the loop bracket had come loose and the metal line was resting(and rubbing) on the metal edge of the pulley. Gotta be careful with that stuff...A fuel leak is the most dangerous of all leaks-not to be messed with.
 
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