-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
The start of something big. Frame off restoration
- Thread starter justin_mercier
- Start date
Share this page
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
A box from Good Parts arrived today with parts I need to start re-assembly ! The front springs are back-ordered for a few weeks, but I still need to disassemble, clean, paint etc all the parts for the front suspension rebuild anyways, so hopefully I can have that all done by the time the springs arrive.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I did my frame repairs on the other side of the bottom of the frame tonight. Pardon the Iphone photos again. I think I know what camera I'll be getting to replace my broken one though !
First I had to fit the replacement patch to the first hole that I had cut out. As with the other side, I also opted to replace more metal where it was solid but seemed too thin for my taste while I was in there.
I made it this far before... I ran out of welding wire! Thank goodness it was a little before 9pm still, so I was able to zip down to Lowes and get some more. I just had a centimeter or less of length to finish this patch.
Here you can see my fitting the other replacement patch. A close fit really helps when I get going.
The way that I've been welding these patches in is to first tack them every inch or so. Then I've been laying down weld on opposite sides and connecting where I tacked it. I've been doing this to prevent from overheating any particular area, which I've still managed to do occasionally, leaving a molten hole to repair.
Here's everything welded up and ready to clean up
And here it is cleaned up. On both sides I have a slight dimple between the patches, because the patch material I used was 1/8th inch thick, and the frame itself is 16 gauge. This didn't let me quite get everything perfectly smooth and seamless looking, but it'll be under the Tshirt when it's done anyways. Again I beat the heck out of everything with my pick hammer to make sure it was all solid after welding and cleaning up.
And finally I primed the area, and the inside of the new bottom tshirt. Tomorrow morning I will paint these areas with the top coat, and tomorrow evening I'll get the bottom tshirt welded on, so I can then flip the frame over and chop the top tshirt off! The repairs that I will have to do on the top should be far far far less significant than the bottom. In fact, it looks like only one side may need any repair at all, and that only a small patch. I was able to poke and prod and explore around at what the metal on the top should look like from the inside when I had the holes chopped out.
First I had to fit the replacement patch to the first hole that I had cut out. As with the other side, I also opted to replace more metal where it was solid but seemed too thin for my taste while I was in there.
I made it this far before... I ran out of welding wire! Thank goodness it was a little before 9pm still, so I was able to zip down to Lowes and get some more. I just had a centimeter or less of length to finish this patch.
Here you can see my fitting the other replacement patch. A close fit really helps when I get going.
The way that I've been welding these patches in is to first tack them every inch or so. Then I've been laying down weld on opposite sides and connecting where I tacked it. I've been doing this to prevent from overheating any particular area, which I've still managed to do occasionally, leaving a molten hole to repair.
Here's everything welded up and ready to clean up
And here it is cleaned up. On both sides I have a slight dimple between the patches, because the patch material I used was 1/8th inch thick, and the frame itself is 16 gauge. This didn't let me quite get everything perfectly smooth and seamless looking, but it'll be under the Tshirt when it's done anyways. Again I beat the heck out of everything with my pick hammer to make sure it was all solid after welding and cleaning up.
And finally I primed the area, and the inside of the new bottom tshirt. Tomorrow morning I will paint these areas with the top coat, and tomorrow evening I'll get the bottom tshirt welded on, so I can then flip the frame over and chop the top tshirt off! The repairs that I will have to do on the top should be far far far less significant than the bottom. In fact, it looks like only one side may need any repair at all, and that only a small patch. I was able to poke and prod and explore around at what the metal on the top should look like from the inside when I had the holes chopped out.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
More parts arrived at my place today! A package came from Rat-Co containing my rear shock in coil conversion kit, specifically made with deeper seating cups for use with lowered springs so that the shock wont bottom out. Also I got my ratco throttle linkage kit as well =)
It's really starting to feel like I'm just about at the point where I start re-assembling. I've got to weld on the bottom tshirt and paint it tonight, and then flip the frame over, chop the top tshirt off, and assess how much repair is needed. As far as I can tell from having looked through the holes I cut in the bottom, currently it's just one small section that's got a problem on the top, so should be a quick fix.
After that will be disassembling the suspension, breaks, etc from the old frame for refurbishment.
On a side note, i was pleasantly surprised to find that the rat-co shock in coil conversion kit comes with new spring seatings, which means I've got an extra set of rear spring packings in poly since I ordered some with the springs from GoodParts as well, oops, ah well =)
It's really starting to feel like I'm just about at the point where I start re-assembling. I've got to weld on the bottom tshirt and paint it tonight, and then flip the frame over, chop the top tshirt off, and assess how much repair is needed. As far as I can tell from having looked through the holes I cut in the bottom, currently it's just one small section that's got a problem on the top, so should be a quick fix.
After that will be disassembling the suspension, breaks, etc from the old frame for refurbishment.
On a side note, i was pleasantly surprised to find that the rat-co shock in coil conversion kit comes with new spring seatings, which means I've got an extra set of rear spring packings in poly since I ordered some with the springs from GoodParts as well, oops, ah well =)
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Bottom is finished (well, except the top coat of paint)
Welded on the bottom T-Shirt plate
and primed the area so that I can paint it black and flip the whole thing over
Welded on the bottom T-Shirt plate
and primed the area so that I can paint it black and flip the whole thing over
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
The frame is done! Well, mostly.
Even with as light as the frame is on our cars, flipping one over by yourself is kinda a pain. My engine hoist helps move a lot more than just engines!
To chop off the top tshirt, I first cut a line straight through the center and then did one side at a time
As I more or less knew from having inspected the metal from the inside when repairing the bottom, there was only one spot that needed fixing on the top, and even that spot wasn't bad at all. But no point in doing things half way.
Again, careful fitting of the patch piece makes for easy welding.
Next I primed everything with self etching primer and let it sit over night. The next day I went over it all with chassis black, and then let it sit for a day again.
Finally I drilled and then filed out to sufficient size the holes for the 4 bolt holes in the frame. Not the prettiest holes when i was done, but they'll work. I then welded the top tshirt on, primed it and let it sit over night.
Finally this morning, I went in and top coated the new Tshirt on the frame and all the areas around it where I sanded / ground / brushed / etc off the paint
Next up... dismantling the suspension from the old frame so I can clean it all, and rebuild it on the new frame with all the new bushings, springs, parts, etc!
I also, after a good bit of research, and reading up on custom car forums, placed an order for 3 Handi Foam II-22 kits, which should, I believe, be sufficient to 2 part closed cell urethane foam fill the cavities on both the chassis, and, once I get to them, the rocker panels / sills. This foam is the exact same foam that used to be sold by a different company (who just bought from FOMO and re-packaged it) as "AutoFoam" and which is still sold in much larger kits by FOMO for automotive purposes.
Even with as light as the frame is on our cars, flipping one over by yourself is kinda a pain. My engine hoist helps move a lot more than just engines!
To chop off the top tshirt, I first cut a line straight through the center and then did one side at a time
As I more or less knew from having inspected the metal from the inside when repairing the bottom, there was only one spot that needed fixing on the top, and even that spot wasn't bad at all. But no point in doing things half way.
Again, careful fitting of the patch piece makes for easy welding.
Next I primed everything with self etching primer and let it sit over night. The next day I went over it all with chassis black, and then let it sit for a day again.
Finally I drilled and then filed out to sufficient size the holes for the 4 bolt holes in the frame. Not the prettiest holes when i was done, but they'll work. I then welded the top tshirt on, primed it and let it sit over night.
Finally this morning, I went in and top coated the new Tshirt on the frame and all the areas around it where I sanded / ground / brushed / etc off the paint
Next up... dismantling the suspension from the old frame so I can clean it all, and rebuild it on the new frame with all the new bushings, springs, parts, etc!
I also, after a good bit of research, and reading up on custom car forums, placed an order for 3 Handi Foam II-22 kits, which should, I believe, be sufficient to 2 part closed cell urethane foam fill the cavities on both the chassis, and, once I get to them, the rocker panels / sills. This foam is the exact same foam that used to be sold by a different company (who just bought from FOMO and re-packaged it) as "AutoFoam" and which is still sold in much larger kits by FOMO for automotive purposes.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
MMM, cleaned and powder coated suspension parts. (no this isn't all of them, just the ones I took a picture of =D)
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Concerned by what looked like a hairline crack I found when starting to clean off my trailing arms, I bought another pair of trailing arms from a fellow in New England Triumphs and picked them up this morning. They're in great shape, although a few of the studs are missing, but the threads inside those holes are not stripped and are very good. I got one of the trailing arms mostly sandblasted, but then something clogged in my feeder pipe and I've got to take it apart and unclog it before i can finish. It's taken a combination of a brass wire cup on the end of my drill and sand blasting to get 40 years of road gunk and tar off these trailing arms. I'm going to finish them with VHT silver caliper paint once they're fully blasted and cleaned. I have new rubber plugs for them as well already in hand. I hope to get these new trailing arms all set and ready to go by the time my stainless hardware arrives.
I'll do the drilling and filing needed for the RATCO shock in coil conversion prior to my painting it as well.
Also here's the rest of the front suspension parts all clean and powder coated, along with the uprated spindle kit from Good Parts.
I'll do the drilling and filing needed for the RATCO shock in coil conversion prior to my painting it as well.
Also here's the rest of the front suspension parts all clean and powder coated, along with the uprated spindle kit from Good Parts.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Aye carumba! 40 years of road dirt and grime and tar is a pain to get off, i dont think i'll finish both trailing arms today! I have one done though and the paint drying. I used VHT silver caliper paint after wirebrushing, sand blasting, degreasing, etc. I masked off the insides of the bushing mounts and the bumper and sprayed away.
VHT caliper paint says that it's the most durable if cured for an hour at around 200f, does anyone forsee any problems tossing a trailing arm in the oven for an hour at that temp? I'm not sure what temp powdercoating ovens get to, but i do know people have powder coated their TAs before
Also, engine hoists are good for holding a lot more than just engines! <3 my hoist now that I own one.
VHT caliper paint says that it's the most durable if cured for an hour at around 200f, does anyone forsee any problems tossing a trailing arm in the oven for an hour at that temp? I'm not sure what temp powdercoating ovens get to, but i do know people have powder coated their TAs before
Also, engine hoists are good for holding a lot more than just engines! <3 my hoist now that I own one.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
It's a good thing that I'm not married, or I'd be sleeping on the couch or in the garage for a week =D But as you can see from how clean my oven is... i dont use it for that much anyways, so heat treating some car parts is all good.
The oven held surprisingly well at 200 exactly.
One trailing arm is now done! (Well, almost done, I still need to drill holes for, and attach the shock in coil bracket from Rat-co and get new studs for it as well) The other still needs some more cleaning, but it's getting close. Should be done the second trailing arm tomorrow. New rubber plugs + silver paint and a good cleaning, and these things look totally different than what I started with =)
The oven held surprisingly well at 200 exactly.
One trailing arm is now done! (Well, almost done, I still need to drill holes for, and attach the shock in coil bracket from Rat-co and get new studs for it as well) The other still needs some more cleaning, but it's getting close. Should be done the second trailing arm tomorrow. New rubber plugs + silver paint and a good cleaning, and these things look totally different than what I started with =)
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Trailing arms done (minus Rat-co shock in coil mounts) Yay. Cleaning these was a beast.
HerronScott
Darth Vader
Offline
Justin,
Is that a Parrish Plastics hardtop in the background?
Scott
Is that a Parrish Plastics hardtop in the background?
Scott
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Yes, it's an original parrish plastics hardtop in fantastic condition, because it sat unused in a garage for 33 years. It's got some dings in the top-coat from being bumped about and shifted around, and the bottom rear seal has a tear in it (it's been removed in the photo you see, and is sitting under the top) but other than that it's in great condition and ready to be painted or whatnot. The chrome on the parrish logo is not that good though, but the headliner inside is like new, and all the rest of the seals are good, and the rear plexi-glass is almost perfect
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
the oven never got above 200, and the rubber stops are fine in boiling water. I didn't feel like wrestling with getting them off, only to put them right back on again hehe.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
My mirrors arrived today. I do like the original bullet mirror look, but they're all but useless as actual mirrors. Looking around, I really liked the look of the baby Vitaloni mirrors that Paul Rego and Chandlerazman over at 6-pack are using, but I also kinda wanted the safety and visibility of modern turn-indicators in my mirrors. I found a company that makes what are essentially imitation Viatloni turbo mirrors with built in lights, and bought a pair. At 15$ each it's worth a try, and if they dont work out well, I can always go for the real things albeit without the turn signals.
