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TR2/3/3A the self of POR15 is and how to apply POR15

sp53

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I am not sure what the self of POR15 is and how to apply POR15 or what the pot life is. The last time I used POR15 the stuff that was left in the can hardened up quick. I am not sure if I did not seal the can correctly or the stuff does that. Moreover, I am almost afraid to spray POR 15 because the product is so potent. Any ideas on the topic welcome. I remember David painting the whole underside of his car, and I do not know if he sprayed or not.

steve
 
I've had some good success with getting some cheap gass marbles and putting a couple in the can of POR15 when I'm done painting. The marbles raise the level of the paint in the can thereby reducing the air space so it doesn't harden.
Also I rub some vaseline on my face and arms to keep any splashes from sticking to my skin.
 
I used a brush to apply it. It is notorious for hardening in a previously opened can. You need to do what you can to get it sealed and any air out.
 
I recently re-opened a half empty can of POR15 that had been sealed with Saran Wrap at least 5 years ago. It was still good. It was one of their tiny cans, maybe that helps.
John
 
Only buy small cans just right for the job. Clean the lid trough well prior to resealing and that marble idea is great. Brush painting actually produces a good finish. It smooths out after you put it on.
I tried TP tools brand of this paint. It is cheaper, went on about the same but does not smooth out as well. Still it does stick to your skin and will only come off with acetone.
 
I would pour out as much as I needed then reseal the can. I think the instructions advise against brush painting from the can. The can did not hang around long enough to set up.

David
 
Thanks you guys. I looked at the POR 15 tech sheet on line, and they said it can be put on in high humidity, and I have that, but that is about all their entire tech sheet and site says. David, I like the advice about pouring it from the can and sealing the can up right away. John, it sounds like the plastic wrap did some good, and Elliot I love the marble story. I will probably drop a couple of rocks in the can now when it gets low, but will seal the can right away. I do have a treasured old marble collection somewhere, and I bet that stuff sticks to glass. Jerry, glad to hear that brushing will smooth out because spraying that stuff should be illegal after what I have seen it does to skin if not taken off correctly. I could not find a temperature that is ideal for the application, but I am guessing 60 to 70 degrees with mild humidity. Thanks again you guys are the best.
steve
 
The Saran trick works well. A shot of MIG gas in the can before closing helps, too.

I have sprayed it. Do it outdoors and wear a mask.

Ed
 
And, don't let even a drop of water or a bead of sweat get into it....

Cheers
Tush
 
I have poked a hole in the hardened layer and used the good stuff underneath. Oh, and only buy the starter set cans!
 
+1 on cleaning the trough carefully before closing it. I had a quart can of POR15 that I could hear the paint sloshing inside the can, but, the lid would not pry off.
I use cans of spray nitrogen from one of the auto paint suppliers (TCP Global I think) that can be sprayed into a can before sealing, eliminating the air in the can. The saran wrap idea sounds good.

Rod
 
I sell this stuff for a living. My company has it's own version of it and is almost identical. These types of paints need two things to cure. Moisture and rust. So if your dipping your brush into the can and brush painting something and repeating that cycle then your introducing a curing agent into the paint. If you intend to use the entire can than no problem. Why this product works so well is because it needs moisture to cure. Why is something rusty? Because moisture is in it and has caused rust to accrue which has moisture trapped in the rust scale. The paint pulls the moisture out of the rust so it can't continue and the paint is so hard and has no pores so it is sealed from the outside elements.
Brushing is perfectly fine and you will be pleased with the finish. If you plan to spray it, use urethane reducer to thin it and WEAR A SEALED PAINTERS MASK that filters out all chemicals because it WILL KILL YOU if you get it into the lungs. Remember it draws out moisture and your lungs will become a rock!
What I have told my customers to do is use aluminum foil between the lid and can. You can only do it a few times if your lucky. The best way is how I have pictured and that is use 2 screws. One on top to break the vacuum and the other on the bottom for a drain hole. unscrew the bottom then the top and streem it into a cup. No chance of any contaminaion. Some times if you over tighten the screw you will have to put an "O" ring around the screw head to help it seal. Hope his helps.
 

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