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The PDO strikes at Miss Agatha

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Under close, and I meen very close instpection I have found the leak. It looks like someone sometime kinked the passanger side brake line at the fitting where it screws into the three way brass fitting. Not a break but a crack big enough that it leaks like a stuck pig.

So guess what? I need that small tube. Should be the same on a Sprite or a Midget. Again the tube that goes from the brass three way fitting around by the shock to the flex hose on the passanger side, only about 9 inches long, twisted like a pigs tail, and has a regular male brake line fitting on one end and a much larger female fitting on the other.

Moss just advised that vinyl to cover the dash is on the way.
 
If this is an original steel line, try your local parts house. Around here, both Pep Boys and Checker have pre-made lines with the proper ends in various lengths. If this is a new line like Moss sells, it's probably cupro-nickel. Moss doesn't list individual lines for spridgets but they do for other applications like MGB, TRs, and some of the big Healey lines. My guess is that they would have one very close to the length you are looking for. You just have to get someone to go look at the stock.

Marv J
 
Jack, if the leak is very near the fitting you could cut the offending piece off and re-flare it. Sears has a nice double-flaring tool for $22.95.

I just checked with our friends at Advanced Discount and they have the same kit for $19and change!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
No way to reflare this one, it is not long enough. and has many twists and turns.

Our fittings are strange as well although a fresh peice of line could be flaired.

Everytime a midget or a sprite 948, 1050 or 1275 is scraped one of these goes to the pile.
 
Jack, I pm'd you back on this, but I just remembered that I may have a correct line on the MG for you. I'll look when I get home tonight.

Are the hard lines similar on the later and earlier cars?
 
Yep all the same.

Going to let my fingers do the walking this morning, the guys on the spridget list say to get a 3/16 line with a bubble fitting on one end and make the rest. I can do that if I can find what I need. Surely I will. They thought NAPA or Advance Auto, we will see.
 
Found at CarQuest, Bubble at one end and I can cut to length and flare the other after I get it bent correctly.

Thanks all for advise and such.

So nice to find something local.
 
I was 99% certain you could do it locally Jack!! The tool I was referring to in my last post (double flare) would have given you the capability of making bubble flares at will, but a new line is better than an old one any day!!
 
Ok fixed that, good advice guys. Line from CarQuest, used my fittings, bent it with my fingers, cut and flaired the wheel end with my old Sears flaring tool. Not a bad job at all.

Thanks again.

Looks like I am going to have to do some serious line work, can not seem to get fluid to the rear or the drivers front. Now I know it is going to the front pass side so the line from the master to the three way is good. But even with the intertube pressure trick I get no joy at any of the other wheels. I know I blew them out. time to start breaking things down, especialy the long run to the rear first, think I will break it at the flex hose and see what I get there first. What a pain, Guess I should have used all new lines up front maybe.

I do have the capability to put 140 pounds of air in one of those lines so that's the game plan.

Told ya all there would be some problems to sort out. hehe
 
Jack, just a gentle reminder to protect that nice shiny new paint from spraying fluid when you blow the lines out. Maybe some strategically placed saran wrap around the area, with a couple of rags loosely fastened around the end of the line.
Jeff
 
bleeding my new lines was a ROYAL pain in the arse Jack...just about new/rebuilt everything, and still lots of little air gremlins!
 
You know what, this fluid does not seem to effect the paint at all. Maybe it is the clearcoat?

I have rear brakes at this point and it got dark on me. sigh.

Tomorrow the front and the clutch I hope. Had a bit of a restriction in the long tube from the brass three way to the rear. Hay that thing is a pain to pull and reinstall.

Next garage I build is going to have a pit or a hoist.

Boy did I have leaks all over, think every connection needed tightened but all seems ok now.

Will check the front cross over line first thing.

Glad this job is about done, I just hate brakes, clutches and carbs that will not behave.

Of course I will need to run some serious fluid through everything when I get all working. I plan on doing this one time for the rest of my life. hehe.
 
I bleed my system every spring.
 
Refurbishing old hydraulic lines has always been a bit of a pain for me. When it comes right down to it, it's probably easier and safer to just replace them altogether than trying to trace clogs in the system!
 
Brake fluid doesnt affect Urethane paints. But anything lacquer, enamel and that was rattlecaned, will clean down to bare metal. If rubber lines have been replaced, the most likely clog will be right before connection point. But it is very easy to copy those lines exactly as originals with the old ones for pattern. Something you will have to do eventually. After playing with a cheap little hand held bender, I was amazed how easy it was to duplicate with precision fit every time. Just be patient when doing the flares, so you dont scrap all that effort.
 
Good on ya, Jack. Brake work has always scared me a bit, I'll admit. And yes, that 3-way is a bit of a pain.
 
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