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The Painting begins

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DNK said:
Hondo -that wrinkling of the paint is called Alligatoring. And as you found out it is usually associated with 2 materials that don't like each other.
Click to expand...

BTW...alligatoring is also a way to tell if paint on an old house is lead-based paint. It's usually several coats thick too.
 
a good option is you use one good coat of sealer ( its expensive but worth it) then the usual base coat then clear coat. The sealer makes sure nightmares like the one you just had do not happen.

Here is what I would do. For the areas that wrinkled..... let it dry, spray some 2k build primer, sand/blend it with the basecoat. Using a scotch pad, scuff the surface of the panels so the sealer has something to hold on to. Spray 1 nice coat of sealer, spray base coat, spray clear coat... your done.

I should also mention incase you dont know, these chemicals your spraying are all really bad stuff. A simple organic vapor mask is not good enough for spraying clear coats or most anything that has a activator. You need to really protect your eyes also, you should really be using a positive air feed mask.

Good luck
 
Hey;
I just painted a Gt6+ and was lucky enough to have a former bodyshop owner working for me, that I could ask a lot of questions to prevent wasting time and material.
The biggest thing I learned was the underneath work was key.
Take the time to clean before sanding. Clean before priming, and clean before painting. Dupont has a much better tack cloth out than the traditional Gerson brand. When I painted I had a silver dollar sized blemish appear on the rear side panel around a very small dent fix. my wife grabbed some 1500 grit sanded it down, and tacked it. I had put on a lot of color, I'm not kidding... a lot! so she did not go through it. The clear must be applied within a 24 hour period or a light overall sanding is required to let the clear into the surface of the paint. By the same token, not sealing up the undercoat properly will let the paint get under old repairs, and primer. The best primer to use on a restore for a daily driver is SEM high build out of an aerosol can. I am actually amazed that my car came out so good (not run free)but good. My back groung, and forte' in cabinet making. The runs I had, have all been sanded off and buffed.
 
on my issue I use a premium sealer and it did not help but thamks for the information, so far the only thing that appears to work is the suggestion Wayne made, BARCOAT, an oxide paint isolator, made in the UK, sprayed a test pannel yesterday and no problems with the alligatoring. And jsfbond your problem was probably due to mixing too much hardner in your filler will cause body filler to come thru your top coat, I use a digital scale to measure the filler to hardner ratio, and I actually ended up using all the filler and not have 1/4 can left and no harder for it

hondo
 
Thanx for the tip on bondo, I have often wondered how to get the proportions correct. I see that 3M and Evercoat have guns and cartridges that dispense exact amount of each, but $$$$. And I don't have anymore than the one GT to rebuild, my bondo days should be over.
 
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