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TR2/3/3A the overdrive units

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I found that although OD parts are cheaper from UK sources (ORS and Rimmer) the shipping, credit card currency conversion fees, and "broker" fees quickly level the playing field. In addition to the usual suspects-Moss, VB, and TRF, Quantum is a good source for parts.
Berry
 
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The good news...watching this Scottish independence vote coming up, the exchange rate on the pound is pretty good right now. I just ordered that rod from Rimmer Bros, and the price was almost like ordering from Amazon, including shipping.
 
Wait till you get the customs house bill ...
 
When I order parts from another country, I ask the supplier to type "AUTOMOBILE SPARE PARTS FOR 1958 TRIUMPH TR3A - CAR MORE THAN 25 YEARS OLD" on the invoice and on the outside of the package. So when the parts arrive, there is no duty to be paid at either end. This may have something to do with the Auto Section of the North American Free Trade Agreement, but I never have to pay duty.

Give it a try next time. Check out Code 8708 Tariff No# 9966. This is what was used on the paperwork when I bought a used valance and bumper from Marv Gruber in Alabama and shipped it to Montreal.
 
From what I understand, the "suprise" brokerage fees apply to large packages that are shipped UPS and collected upon delivery. I ordered some small OD parts (about $200) from Rimmer, the parts were shipped by Royal Air Mail in a large envelope. The shipping charge was about $27, not cheap, but not too bad. The problem is not knowing at the time of ordering, when additional fees will be incurred.
Berry
 
Hey Randall is it possible to turn the ball/spring shaft somuch that the guts of it would drop down into the case? Something just does notseem correct in the ball spring valve assembly. I cannot get the brass level onthe other end to get very close to the 3/16 hole. I think when I was cleaning Imove the shaft like a butterfly on a carb and dropped the guts down, but I amnot sure. I copied the picture off thedirty hands article to perhaps find some clarification. “The only thing towatch out for is that the cam may turn far enough to let the spindle fall downagain, which will block turning the rod back to where it belongs. If thathappens, bend a paper clip to fit into the hole of the spindle so you can liftit back up and turn the cam where it belongs.” So whatI am grabbing with the paper clip?
 
sp53 said:
Hey Randall is it possible to turn the ball/spring shaft somuch that the guts of it would drop down into the case? Something just does notseem correct in the ball spring valve assembly. I cannot get the brass level onthe other end to get very close to the 3/16 hole. I think when I was cleaning Imove the shaft like a butterfly on a carb and dropped the guts down, but I amnot sure. I copied the picture off thedirty hands article to perhaps find some clarification. “The only thing towatch out for is that the cam may turn far enough to let the spindle fall downagain, which will block turning the rod back to where it belongs. If thathappens, bend a paper clip to fit into the hole of the spindle so you can liftit back up and turn the cam where it belongs.” So whatI am grabbing with the paper clip?
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The top of "valve" J in your diagram is hollow, slightly larger than the tip of a paper clip. So, put a bit of a kink in the paper clip, kind of like so: ----^- just big enough to make it fit snugly in the hole. Then when you lift back up, the spindle should come with it. It's a good idea to inspect it anyway, there is a small hole on the side that can sometimes get clogged with debris and cause operating problems (typically slow to shift to direct drive). The hole in this photo has been exaggerated for clarity, it's normally much smaller:

Once you've got it out, you can just keep it safe until you've re-installed the solenoid. The solenoid arm will keep the cross rod from turning too far again, and the spindle doesn't need to be installed while adjusting the arm with the 3/16" hole.
 
titanic said:
From what I understand, the "suprise" brokerage fees apply to large packages that are shipped UPS and collected upon delivery.
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That may make them more likely. But my understanding is that it is more-or-less random chance. If a Customs inspector happens to decide he wants a person to explain what something is, he will confiscate the package until that happens. What UPS (or any shipper) will do then is have their brokerage house (a separate company that specializes just in getting things through Customs) send a representative to satisfy the Customs agent. The fee you pay is for that person to (usually) make a phone call.

Last time I got hit with it, the brokerage bill didn't show up until weeks after I had my parts (and had already paid the shipper). That was some years ago, though, so perhaps things have changed since then.
 
Thanks Randall I was able to lift it high enough to get the cam on the correct side, now I understand what you meant earlier. I was unable, however, to get the piece to come all the way out. It wants to stop at what looks like the end of its travel. I can get needle nose pliers on it, but I do not want to damage it. Perhaps the piece is mushroomed on the end or bent. I am thinking about leaving it alone because it works smoothly on the cam, and I see how the system operates now.

I am getting ready to check the solenoid, and do you think it would be ok to use the 3/16 hole in the case and pinch bolt tight for a rough measurement and just power up the unit with the ball and spring back in? I see the one article suggests cleaning the solenoid points and slider if it does not operate. I will try that if it fails. I noticed that Moss does not have the replacement rubber boot for the top, perhaps TRF does-- plus my bottom rubber piece on the plunger is missing also. I see you have something on yours. Was that something you improvised? I am thinking maybe a spark plug boot might work, and thanks again I would have been stuck on this one.
 
sp53 said:
I am getting ready to check the solenoid, and do you think it would be ok to use the 3/16 hole in the case and pinch bolt tight for a rough measurement and just power up the unit with the ball and spring back in?
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Should be OK as a test. It is kind of important that the OD disengage when the solenoid is released, though, so I would want to also test with the solenoid. There's also quite a bit of slack in the lever, so you need to check that the solenoid pulls the arm all the way down to the hole.
I noticed that Moss does not have the replacement rubber boot for the top, perhaps TRF does-- plus my bottom rubber piece on the plunger is missing also. I see you have something on yours. Was that something you improvised? I am thinking maybe a spark plug boot might work, and thanks again I would have been stuck on this one.
Click to expand...
That is a replacement solenoid (from Quantum Mechanics), which came with the boots. I've never seen them for sale separately.
 
CJD said:
The good news...watching this Scottish independence vote coming up, the exchange rate on the pound is pretty good right now. I just ordered that rod from Rimmer Bros, and the price was almost like ordering from Amazon, including shipping.
Click to expand...

Aaaah...just checked the rates, Scottland voted freedom down and the exchange rate on the pound is already up 35% overnight. Bummer for ordering parts...
 
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