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rlandrum

rlandrum

Jedi Trainee
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I've come up with a few more missing items for my TR3A (it seems endless now). It seems the more you know, the less you have. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

Missing in action:

Lug nut (1).
Fuel Pump Glass Bowl and Retainer
Starter Solenoid Switch
Flasher unit
Crank Pulley
Steering wheel center/horn button

Anyone willing to part with these?

Also, does a clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit include the push rod, spring, seal, piston, and dust cover? If not, I need the push rod and piston.
 
Ah, the joys of restoration ring out among us......

Unlike the Holiday season, these go on all year long.

Especially after you think that you have everything.
 
Just so everyone knows what I'm looking for, here's the complete list:

Lugnut (1)
Fuel pump bowl
Starter Solenoid Switch
Flasher (Blinker) Unit
Fuel Pump Gasket
Oil Pan Gasket
Crank Pulley
Horn Button
Triumph Letters on front
Clutch Slave Cylinder internals (I have externals)
Master cylinder (clutch and brake, PO should have)
Gas tank straps
Oil Gallery
Rear Seat (optional)
Front Bumper
Rear Bumperettes (optional)
Front hood emblem
Spring Clips for letters, emblem, etc.
4x 165SR15 Tires
Winshield glass
Fuses (2, main)
Fuse (1, in dash)
Upper and lower radiator hoses
4x NGK spark plugs
3x Side window mounts
Headlight unit (mount + bezel, ebay in progress)
Headlight bezel only (ebay in progress)
 
HOpe you have more sheets in your notepad. I'll gaurentee that list is just the tip of the "Berg" so to speak.
The horn button on a TR3 also houses the turn signal switch. It actually stays stationaty as the wheel turns. It does this by means of a steel tube that runs inside the length of the steering shaft and pokes out the front of the steering box.
That being said, how much of the setup are you missing? Take a look at the MOSS illustration in thier catalog to get an idea.
Also, the hydraulic piston rebuild kits (any of them) only contain the rubber parts. seals, and dust boots. any missing metal parts will need to be found sepratly.
I'd suggest finding a book or two like "How to restore a Triumph TR2 TR3& 3A" by Roger Williams.
And requesting catalogs from Victoria British, Moss, and TRF (The Roadster Factory)
That info will get you ahead by leaps and bounds and save hours of tryig to figure things out.
Oh.. and Welcome to the never ending task of the "simple reassembly of an almost completed project"
 
Banjo said:
Welcome to the never ending task of the "simple reassembly of an almost completed project"
Click to expand...

... that 99% complete. But the 1.0% missing parts are NLA.
 
PeterK said:
Banjo said:
Welcome to the never ending task of the "simple reassembly of an almost completed project"
Click to expand...

... that 99% complete. But the 1.0% missing parts are NLA.
Click to expand...

Isn`t that the truth!
Everything he has listed is available through the big three, EXCEPT the gas tank straps.
I`m also missing one for my 56 and I understand it is different than the later model straps at that! But seeing how I have one I can use as a pattern ...........
 
rlandrum said:
Also, does a clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit include the push rod, spring, seal, piston, and dust cover? If not, I need the push rod and piston.
Click to expand...
Nope. Just the seal & dust cover. But the only spring on a TR3A is the return spring beside the pushrod. There is no spring inside the slave cylinder.
 
rlandrum!

Post some photos of your car. It sounds like it is
mostly restored except for a few "bits". You are
fortunate to have such a short shopping list.

BUT............as Banjo points out, you will probably need
a few more sheets of paper before everything is sorted out
to your satisfaction.

best of luck and keep us posted on your progress.

tinster
 
Tinster: https://xjguy.com/triumph/

Not many recent photos. I'll upload some tonight.

I'm sure there are lots of missing bits. But my goal is not to find and fix them all, but just to get it running first.

Banjo: I have the steel tube insert, and a wire running through it. I suspect it was for the horn, or perhaps just for reinstalling the original harness. I may have a lead on a used one.

I requested catalogs a week ago from the big three. They're slow coming. I got the "Christmas" catalog from TRF, but not the full TR3 one.
 
Keep going!

I find it helps to reduce the size of the problem sometimes - I try to get really focused on one little bit and then knock it off.

I'm also fond of just walking away sometimes....and then picking it back up later that day/night or the following day.

You'll get there!
 
rlandrum said:
I requested catalogs a week ago from the big three. They're slow coming. I got the "Christmas" catalog from TRF, but not the full TR3 one.
Click to expand...
TRF doesn't really publish a "full TR3" catalog, except for the reprint of the factory Spare Parts Catalogue.
 
TR3driver said:
TRF doesn't really publish a "full TR3" catalog, except for the reprint of the factory Spare Parts Catalogue.
Click to expand...

That catalog is worth having. TRF uses OE part numbers, so you can just plug in those numbers on their web site for prices etc. The Moss website has pictorial breakdowns on all the parts along with prices. I sometimes find that easier to use then printed catalogs.

Edit: Also on the Moss site, they have a "wish List" feature. When you come across a part you need, you can add it there. When the number of parts gets to your credit card max, you just add it to the shopping cart and they will ship the stuff out. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
martx-5 said:
That catalog is worth having.
Click to expand...
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Also on the Moss site, they have a "wish List" feature. When you come across a part you need, you can add it there.[/QUOTE]TRF's site does as well. I use it a lot.
 
rlandrum, sounds like your getting started right.
On the horn piece. there are 2 styles. One is for regular steering wheels, and one is for the telescopic wheel (identified by a big "nut" just behind the wheel on the steering column that can be rotated clockwise to allow the wheel to slide in and out, and a chromed "coil spring" that covers the adjustment area)
Both of them have a 2 piece tube for inside the shaft. the long piece with a slot cut in the upper end, and the short piece with the mounting disc for the horn/turn signal assembly referred to as the "control head"
A common problrm is for the long tube to break off where the slot is cut in it leaving nothing to keep the control head leveled.
Keep that wire threaded in there. You'll find it very helpful in re-threading the control head wires back through.
Of course all this still dosen't get you any closer to getting a new control head. So I'll shut up now.
 
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