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The fun just won't stop [engine rebuild questions]

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Valve stems have oil seals, otherwise the oil would drip down the stem, thru the guide, and into the cylinder. If you have the valves done at a machine shop, they install them. Some are simply o rings that act as little umbrellas so the drip is not onto the guide, some are actually caps that slip over the guide. I don't remember which is on this little motor. As Randall says, there was obviously water getting to those head studs.
 
Relax, Pat, it's not supposed to have valve stem seals. Some folks like to add them, but they really aren't necessary. And others feel that they shorten the life of the valve guides (which after all need some lubrication).
 
Another question. A couple of my lifters don't appear to be rotating. See the wear pattern. Is this a significant problem that needs to be addressed while I have engine apart? Any thoughts? These are new tappets and they appear to slide right into the bores. New cam too.
 
I've always heard that lifter life will be shortened if they don't rotate, but can't say I've done any real comparisons. Unfortunately, it looks like it may take a cam regrind to solve the problem. The cam lobe is supposed to be slightly offset from the lifter centerline, and have a very slight taper fore/aft, but from your photo it appears that your cam has neither. There is also supposed to be a very slight curve on the bottom of the lifter (which also encourages them to rotate), but I don't think it will help if the cam nose is perfectly square to the lifter bore.
 
Thanks Randall
I'm going to run with these. I'll watch for valve lash changes and see if this becomes a problem. Disappointed that they don't spin, given that it is a new cam and new lifters. Oh well.

Appreciate the response.

pat
 
I spoke with Leighton of BPNW, where I purchased cam and lifters. He indicated that you need to use high zinc break in oil and run at about 2,000 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes when first starting the engine. I am going to try that next weekend. Hoping we can get those lifters to start spinning in their bores. I had no problem spinning them in place with my finger.
Pat
 
OK, I have good news and bad news. I finished the rebuild for the second time, after installing RevingtonTR rear crank seal and installing new black iron pipe plug in head, replacing badly corroded aluminum casting plug in cyl head. Engine fired right up and idles great. Misses at higher RPM but I'm sure I can sort that out.

To my dismay, I still have a lot of oil leaking from the back of my engine and dripping from bellhousing. I say I am a bit discouraged is an understatement. That was last weekend.

Just bought a kit from AutoZone with flourescent dye, a UV light, and some nerdy yellow glasses. Put the dye in my oil, ran it until I saw dye/oil drips on the shop floor, and stopped the engine. Supporting engine with a jack, pulled the tranny, press plate, and flywheel. And lo and behold, what did the dye tell me?

I have oil leaking from a rear plug on the block. See attached photo. What is this plug and how is it replaced? I feel like my machine shop let me down, as this is the second plug (first was in the cyl head) that failed - seems preventable. Can anyone tell me what this is, how it is replaced (i.e., do you have to strip block to replace it?) and what I'm in for here?

Thanks guys. Really need to finish this fun and get the engine running and body back on this baby.

Pat

 
That's the plug for the oil gallery. TRF sells a stick of four plugs that screw into the block and then you cut off flush the remaining plugs. You should be able to cut a groove into the aluminum with your Dremil tool and screw it out with a large screw driver. Make sure you use a high temp sealant when you put the new plug in. I think I have an extra plug you can have. Please let someone confirm what I just said about this .
 
Pat, that is the plug that was leaking on mine. Those plugs you borrowed are what I used for there. I used a tamp around the edges and then sealed it with JB weld. Mine did not fit that tight! Jerry
 
For those of you who haven't had the pleasure of replacing your oil gallery plug in the back of your TR3 block, here is my photo summary. I would recommend that this be done if you have your engine out and hot tanked at the machine shop.

Pat


Cut a slot in it with a dremel (I had to use a small drill bit too, to get deep enough to use a big screwdriver and wrench to crank on it.


Unscrew your existing plug


Clean out the threads without getting any junk into your oil gallery.


Buy some plugs from TRF (they come in a four pack with a nifty nib on the end that is made perfectly for your vice grips. (or borrow plugs from Jerry - thanks Jerry).


Screw it in nice and tight. I used Permatex Black RTV (500 degrees, best oil resistance). Others said to use JB Weld which I'm sure would be great. Mine was a tight fit so I was comfortable with the RTV.


Use a hacksaw blade, cut the aluminum plug as flush as you can. Was pretty easy to cut by hand.
 
Hey Guys
Check out my very amateur video of my engine startup. She sounds pretty good. And no oil on the floor or water in the oil. Amazing...

Now time to install the tub on the frame.

Pat

https://youtu.be/gp4PZxAnn5o
 
Boy that high torque starter fired that thing right up, sounds good.
 
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