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Tips

The Disappearing Damper Oil!

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Gerdo

Gerdo

Freshman Member
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My Damper Oil in my Stromberg 175 disappears after about a week. Does my Diaphragm have hole in it?
 
I can't believe no one has spoken up. If it takes a week to loose your damper oil, it is not likely that the ZS diaphram has a leak. The O-ring on the needle valve adjusting screw should be changed. It is not difficult to do this yourself, but you will need a special adjusting tool to reset the needle valve position.

Good luck
 
Does it completely disappear or does the oil level just drop?

If it is totally gone (or nearly so) then see above.

If the oil level just goes down quite a bit this is sometimes due to over-filling the reservoir. I think you only need enough in there to get resistance during the last quarter-inch or so when you puch the damper back in.
 
Gerdo -- I see on your profile your hobbies are "Cars, Teardrops".

Certainly the 2 sometimes go together, but assuming that isn't what you meant and that this has nothing to do with Jackie Wilson songs -- perhaps it is Teardrop trailers? If so, are you pulling a trailer with your TR6? If so, I would like to see what set-up you have.
 
Needle valve. Is that that the Metering Needle? That is the one that goes in from the top and is adjusted with a "Stromberg Carb Tool", right? Will I need also need to resyncro my carbs? It has been a while since I worked on them last but I have done it and I have the books.
 
To get the the "O" ring out you need to remove the metering needle. Turn the air valve upside down and using a soft brass drift or a hard wood dowel rod hit the adjuster screw until the retaining clip and the screw come out of the top.
Replace the O ring and reassemble. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
There is a retaining screw in the base of the air valve assembly that needs to be removed (item 16 - TRF TR6 Spare Parts catalog)to release the needle valve. Then you have to a use the adjusting tool to back the adjuster out until is has cleared the internal threads. Then the adjusting screw can be carefully pressed out the upper end of the air valve assembly. There is a retaining spring clip that tends to fly ( don't ask) when you reach the end. The o-ring is simply replaced and the re-assembly is fairly straight forward. [Don't forget the retaining screw! again don't ask] Before I remove the retaining screw, I always count the turns (clockwise) to the adjuster stop before I remove the needle valve and adjuster assembly, so I can re-set the needle in the same position on re-assembly. I also like to use 'viton' o-rings, they seem to be a bit better.

Good luck,
 
I need to do this to my carbs. I notice I loose damper oil in cold months due to o-ring shrinkage then once spring arrives the issue go away (for awhile...)
 
Any suggestions on the type and/or brand of oil to use here. I have been using 20 wt. 3-in-1 machine oil, the little blue can, only because it has this great little dispenser can. I have heard that automatic tranny fluid is good. A good tip here will be appreciated as I have a sneaking suspicion that I could be using the wrong stuff.

Bill
 
A lot of folks use regular motor oil. That's what I've been doing. I've been using 10W40. I've never had any problems using that. As always, there isn't any one particular fluid that you can use to get the job done. There are choices.
 
Since the viscosity of the oil smooths/slows the lift of the needle due to vacuum depression, the thinner the oil the quicker response, but the thinner the oil, the easier it slips past the o-ring. I use a 20w50 + Marvel mystery oil mix - about 50/50, but I have heard of others using ATF, 10 wt machine oil, etc.
TRF/VB/Moss sell damper oil, but I have never tried it - it may be the bees knees as far as I know, but my home made mixture works for me.
 
Well THIS subject is moving a long well;over the last four years i've ask the same question WHAT VISCOSITY?is it supposed to be.My bottle of the Moss damper oil is almost empty,And i don't know what is correct or proper.I've even called Moss & TRF customer support 3 times with different generic answers.So Again common sense prevails(for me at least)
10w30 is what i settled on.10w for cold(er)thinner viscosity(for a rich carb setting)THEN logic tells me it gradiates to a thicker leaner carb setting,& stays at 30w viscosity as the engine warms up.But as the saying goes Sherlock its elementary my dear Watson.But the mystery goes on.
KM&WL a 1500 Spit
 
you'd think the oil would stay there unless the o-ring or the diaphram was shot. Any thoughts on that?
 
well KennyP, I think it may be the shrinkage factor at work here...so far as the o-rings go...
My latest batch is a mix of dextron and marvel misery oil. It's as good as the 20w50,10W40 and 10w30 and straight 30 I've used. Next I may try out the Crisco pure vegetable cooking oil, I have plenty and it's cholesterol free.

Achtung
 
That should leave a nice rancid smell in a few weeks. I think I'd stick with the motor oil, MM oil mix, or ATF. Have you ever opened a bottle of vegetable oil after it's been sitting for a couple weeks?
 
You could always pull up to the McDonald's window and ask for some old deep-fry oil... That way your car would always smell like french fries...
 
[ QUOTE ]
...WHAT VISCOSITY?is it supposed to be...

[/ QUOTE ]

A rule of thumb used by some is "whatever weight oil you have in the engine", i.e. if you switch to a lower viscosity oil in the winter months then you would change the damper oil accordingly.
 
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