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The deeper I go.....the deeper I go

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What started out as a quick, in-car rod and main bearing job as turned into an engine removal and complete disassembly.

I figured it'd be a good idea to do a set of rings "while I'm here" and lower the blow by that's been driving me nuts.

Good news, cylinders look good, just a little wear especially for 95K. I'd rather bore and go 9:1, but I really can't afford the $$$ and to have it down that long right now.

The crank should really be turned, rods resized and block align bored, but I'm just looking for two more years (about 5000 miles) more out if it as I plan on building another engine to swap out later.

So...here's the problem. Three of my lifters quit turning and one has started to "flake" a bit on the edge.

I've considered just changing the three, but I don't know what kind of wear pattern has been established and it may do it again or get worse.

I'd also hate to put a new (reground) cam in half of an engine.


I think I might just stick to the plan and deal w/ it later.
 
stick to the plan.
 
I'm with JP -- stick with the original plan. Don't be like me and be 3 years into a month-long plan to "just recore the radiator."
 
Thanks guys, I needed that. Allot of my posts are about cutting corners to avoid such issues as I KNOW deep in my heart, once I tear into something I CANNOT put it back together unless it it ABSOLUTELY perfect. Believe it or not, I get alittle OCD when it come to internal engine.

A small voice kept saying, "this aint right....this aint right".

I think I can live w/ just changing the three lifters, as at least I did ~something~ about it. If it eats them up, I'll deal w/ it later.

Three year radiator recore? Oy vey indeed !!!
 
Do you want to drive it or look at all it's parts spread out all over the place for years and years.

Now... if you had another lbc to drive while you were going over every little bit and piece that would be another story completely...

:devilgrin:
 
Morris said:
Has it been 3 years? Oy vey!
Click to expand...
Yup! It'll be 3 years in April 2010. A radiator and gas tank cleaning turned into a disc brake conversion, front suspension rebuild, and 1275 build up -- basically a full mechanical rebuild. I'd be tempted to do even more (there is a bit rust here and there, but just minor), but in the 4 years I've had the Tunebug I've only driven maybe 200 miles, all in the first year.

So don't be like me. Drive that thing!
grin.gif
 
Just got finish polishing the crank and it's visibly out of round. I can tell by the wear marks for the oil grooves in the mains. There has to be a better alternative for mains. Chevy tried the 360* grooved mains on the small block when designing it, but they had too much wear and went w/ full bearings top and bottom. I plan on finding something that'll work or align boring to fit...which I'll have to do anyway. Without the groove and a wider bearing surface, it might be possible to get almost 100% more bearing surface. #2 main DEFINATLY needs more surface.

I think full bearings w/ a cross-drilled crank will work out well.

What's the worst will happen, wear my crank out of round ?!?!?!?!

MGB rod bearings as well, but I'll have to do more research on them.

Thanks Morris. That's the same folks w/ the best ring prices. A little high on the reground cams though.
 
spitbits.com has better prices on cams... if you want a cam.
 
Kelly the groove in the main bearing is to let oil in from the oil galleys and also to take it to the cam bearing, it's there for a reason, trust me, you don't have to re-invent the main bearing, just buy good tri metal ones.
 
drooartz said:
I'm with JP -- stick with the original plan. Don't be like me and be 3 years into a month-long plan to "just recore the radiator."
Click to expand...

Now, what's the fun in sticking to a plan? :devilgrin:

But "doing it right" can quickly turn into a compulsion that takes years to cure....
 
I'm just puttin' this one back together and not gonna do any trail blazin' right now.

Hap, I DO trust you ALLOT and respect your knowledge and opinions. After all, you're the main reason I would like to further develope this engine as you stated is wasn't all that bad. If Hap's says it aint all that bad, then it aint all that bad.

You're advicement against this is noted, however; I feel that something could be done to lessen crank wear.... even if I have to blow something up trying to get there.

I don't see how a solid bearning surface would interfere with oil transfer to the cam (especially on the bottom), as those gallies meet in the block just above #2 main. Even if you put an insert in wrong where it blocked the galley holes to the crank, the cam would still get oil. Am I missing something?

IMO, this crank needs more bearing surface and counterweights. Me and my OCD self won't let it die, cause it'll drive me nuts till I see it to the end. I ~HAVE~ to, I don't have a choice. Something is wrong and I believe I can do something about it. I HAVE to do something. (I think I found someone who can weld on counterweights similar to the way they are welded to a VW type 1 crank.)

This is why friends will bring something by that's "not right" and they'll know I'll fix it for free.......because it's driving me nuts KNOWING it's wrong, right there in front of me and I can do something about it.

So, that being said, I would VERY much enjoy and appreciate your company, help, advice and any comments while I travel down this road.

If I blow something up along the way, so be it.


Now here..... hold my beer and watch this......



......AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH!
 
kellysguy said:
If I blow something up along the way, so be it.


Now here..... hold my beer and watch this......



......AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH!
Click to expand...

you might be a redneck if..... :jester:
 
Hap, from what I can see, it appears the cam and crank are fed directly from the pump through a central galley. Is this correct? I don't have an oil diagram for the 1500.
 
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