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The car's yellow, I'm green

lawguy

Jedi Knight
Offline
A colleague of mine who is more than a bit of a gearhead just made a true "find." A relative of a relative had this little yellow car in the garage that they bought a long time ago and stopped driving about 4 years ago. Now they were looking to get rid of it, "is $1,000 too much?"

Well, my friend paid the $1,000 and what did he get? A true "one owner" (well, now two) 1975 MGB with 27,000 miles. It was a weekend driver for all those years and was used sparily, but regularly up to 2001.

It is completely rust free except for a little surface rust on the bottom of the gas tank, but a hair dusty. The original top is like new and the rear window is crystal clear. It's even on the original tires (which will be replaced shortly).

I gave him Tony's "Awakening" article and he was able to get the thing running (well), but the brakes are locked up (4 years with the parking brake on).

I offered to get him out of the jam of having too many hobby cars around and let him make an immediate 50% profit, but for some reason he declined. Go figure.

I am trying to get him to sign on here.
 
Whats the best way to get the brakes unlocked, I just got a MG with the same problem. (Parking brake left on for two years)
 
Hi Tullamore, I am not sure this is the best way to unlock frozen brakes but has worked for me in the past.Take a water hose and soak em good while gently rocking the car back and forth.Works on clutches too.---Fwiw---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
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I offered to get him out of the jam of having too many hobby cars around and let him make an immediate 50% profit, but for some reason he declined. Go figure.

I am trying to get him to sign on here.

[/ QUOTE ]
should tried double or triple....still been a good deal!
 
Tell me about...no go. It doesn't help that the first two cars he owned were Bs.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Whats the best way to get the brakes unlocked, I just got a MG with the same problem. (Parking brake left on for two years)

[/ QUOTE ]

I used alot of wd40 and worked on the moveable parts with a mallet. Took about an hour on the left rear but it finally came free. Every spring and fall I spray the heck out of all my cars engines/underside/wheel wells/linkages with wd40. Gotta be careful of the exhaust though. But anyway, it is a great way of keeping the hardware free of rust to some extent.
 
Loosen the adjuster a couple of turns. Take off the road wheels and take a large mallet or lead hammer to the brake drums...from all angles but from the bottom inside as much as possible. Use a good penetrating oil (kroil etc) on the studs where they go thorugh the drum. Be careful of the dust guard and cylinders with the hammer...a small peice of hardwood can be used to get between the shoes and pound the drums off of the pads, when IT is ready.

Happy hammering!

Bruce
 
first i would try popping the ebrake cable pins at the inside of the wheels.
 
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