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Test light to set static timing

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M

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I know this is rather basic, but could someone describe how to set up the test light to set static timing?
 
You can use a a 12V test light, or a DC voltmeter. Bring the engine up to TDC by aligning the pointer with the hole in the pulley. It doesn't matter if your on #1 or #4 cylinder. Turn the knurled nut on the distributor and find the long hash mark and line it up with the marker. This will put the adjuster in the middle, and will always give you a reference point. Loosen the distributor pinch bolt. Attach the test light or voltmeter to the coil. Do this on the side where the wire goes to the distributor. If using a voltmeter set it at DC volts, and clip the red (+) lead from the voltmeter there. Hook the other end to the negative on the battery. This goes for the test light or the voltmeter.

Turn the ignition on, but DO NOT CRANK THE CAR OVER, or you'll have to start over again.

If the test light is on, or the voltmeter registers, turn the whole distributor CCW, until the light goes off. Then turn it back until it just lights. Tighten the distributor pinch bolt.

If the test light is off when you turn on the ignition, turn the distributor CW just until the light goes on or the meter registers. Tighten the distributor pinch bolt. Now you can advance the timing with the knurled nut. Each mark is equal to 4° crank advance (2° distributor advance), so start with the basic factory setting of 4° (one hash mark). Then you can play around from there using the knurled nut and always know where you started from.
 
If you had a helper,your ammeter can also work as your indicator(although probably not worth the bother since the dist. is esay to view and just looking at points should be close enough.)At least thats what I do on my old cycle.points closed indicates slight discharge that ticks back to zero as I rotate distributor and they open.
Tom
 
On a related note, I set my timing using a test light a few weekends ago. I have a pertronix installed in my distributor, but I believe the process is very similar to if I still had points.

While rotating the distributor, my test light went from dim to bright (some folks say it goes from off to on, but that has never been my experience) and that was my indicator that I had properly set my timing.

What I didn't expect, was that I also received a shock when my test light got bright. Have any of you esxperienced that before. I know it was a shock, because I went through the process three times, just to be sure. In retrospect, that was probably a bad way to verify what was happening, as I could have hurt myself, or my ignition, but what is done is done.
 
You will get a shock from the low-tension side when the points open. That is normal. That energy is typically absorbed by the condenser... you just became part of the circuit.
 
Any ol' VW guys around ?
Remember John Muir's classic publication ?
 
Do you mean "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive"?

I still have a copy in the garage. It's a great book full of "how tos" when you don't have the factory tools.
 
Just for fun I use a 12V buzzer instead of the light. Lets me focus my old eyes on the crank when checking timing vs keeping one eye on the light.

If you connect the light between the battery and the low tension lead you can leave the ignition off and also avoid any shock.

Yes, John Muir. Good stuff -- at least we don't have to debate or remember which end of the engine is front ("front is front").
 
dklawson said:
Do you mean "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive"?

I still have a copy in the garage. It's a great book full of "how tos" when you don't have the factory tools.
Click to expand...

How about the subtitle..got to love it
"A Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot".
And tools..you right. At the time except for a floor jack I had all the tools needed to rebuild the engine in an Ammo can.

BTW if anyone who is not familar with the book and is wondering why John Muir worked his way into this topic it's because of his compleat disregard for a strobe light.
 
Ah, I knew I'd heard that name somewhere, but couldn't place it. There's a copy of "Keep your VW alive" on my bookshelf, although as it turned out I only had a bug in my possession for about 4 days.

Could've had more when a friend cleaned out his garage, but I didn't have any place to keep them either.
 
I just followed very carefully the above instructions to set the static timing on my TR3B. The car will start but is running very rough. Can anyone describe the proper orientation of the vacuum advance unit. Mine is sort of pointing down and left toward head light. I did tighten the bolt just as the test light went on. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Art
 
af3683 said:
...Can anyone describe the proper orientation of the vacuum advance unit...
Click to expand...

I don't think you can judge the reasonableness of a distributor setting by looking at the orientation of the the vacuum unit as that unit (and the whole distributor) may have been inserted into the cam shaft gear in a position that is off by a tooth or more. Can still be timed okay like that but the with a different vacuum unit position other than what the factory had in mind(which was roughly parallel to the block).

Any timing setting done in the garage is subject to tweaking along the road as you drive. But rough running could be attributed to other factors to.

Typical distributor orientation...

DistributorOrientation.jpg


If the idle is rough you can certainly adjust the distributor a bit based on that -- turning until you get maximum idle ROM than backing off a bit.

My usual sequence is: valve adjustment, points gap, timing, carb sync, mixture adjustment then get on the road for final adjustment of timing & mixture.
 
Thanks George. The car was running decent before I "adjusted" the timing. My goal was try to see if I could get it to run even better and learn how to set the static timing. The orientation of the vacuum advance was similar to yours before I started. It seems like I have the hole and the marker lined up and I'm turning the distributor CCW until the light goes out and then CW just until the light goes on. It seems so simply. I probably should have left well enough alone.

Art
 
When I did the static timing I connected one end of the test light to the connector on the distributor where the wire goes to the coil, and the other end of the test light to the positive battery terminal (ground). I assume that the wire from the coil to distributor is <span style="font-weight: bold">not</span> supposed to be disconnected at the distributor when you do this.

Art
 
There are several different ways to do it; any one will work as long as it indicates when the points open (which is when the spark happens). With your method, Art, you would need the wire connected, and the ignition switch on. Then the light would come on (indicating the points just opened) as you rotate the distributor clockwise.
 
Randall, I was reading the Ken Gillanders method and his method is to remove the low tension lead and to connect the light to the distributor terminal and a hot lead (negative side of the battery). Ken does not say to turn the ignition on. He then turns the distributor CCW until the light just comes on and then CW until it just goes out. John Twist's Youtube video seems to imply the same. I guess I'm wondering it I use the Gillanders/Twist method will that give me a different result, make the engine run smoother, and possibly change the orientation of my vacuum advance back closer to parallel with the block? Im confused. Thanks.

Art
 
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