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Temperature gauge went goofy!!

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Russ Austin

Russ Austin

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My wife and I went shopping for a new refrigerator, so we jumped into the 3 and went shopping. After 30 or so minutes the temperature gauge read 175 to 180 degrees and everything seemed fine. Stopped at a place to look at some refrigerators came out got in the car and drove away, about 5 minutes later I looked at the gauge and it read like 100 degrees and falling. Got home looked under the bonnet and checked everything, any idea’s would be appreciated.
 
Russ Austin said:
My wife and I went shopping for a new refrigerator, so we jumped into the 3 and went shopping.
Click to expand...


I want to know how the heck you were gonna fit a new refrigerator into that 3.
 
It wasn't easy!!
tr10a.jpg
 
Russ Austin said:
about 5 minutes later I looked at the gauge and it read like 100 degrees and falling.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the gauge itself picked that moment to fail. The original TR3 gauge is fully mechanical, so no electrical connections to cause problems. The downside is that the slightest leak will let the ether out, ruining the gauge.

As a double-check, touch the thermostat housing. If it's too hot to keep your hand on (as it should be), then the gauge itself is broken. Unfortunately, repair of a mechanical temp gauge is beyond the usual DIY skills, so you can either send yours off to be repaired at some place, or buy another one. Working originals tend to bring as much or even more than the price to have them repaired (about $150 last I heard); but aftermarket gauges that will fit are much less expensive. I paid about $25 for a Sun-Pro gauge (but saw the same gauge for $40 in a Western Auto yesterday).
 
Depending on your comfort level... you can possibly repair the broken gauge yourself. I was directed to the link below and eventually borrowed a broken Smiths dual-gauge just to try the method. It does work. You have to have some minor fabrication skills, the ability to solder, and you need to be careful and quick in your work. The total investment in materials is about $20 assuming you already have basic repair tools (I have yet to meet an LBC owner that doesn't have SOME tools).

See:
https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
 
dklawson said:
Depending on your comfort level... you can possibly repair the broken gauge yourself. I was directed to the link below and eventually borrowed a broken Smiths dual-gauge just to try the method. It does work. You have to have some minor fabrication skills, the ability to solder, and you need to be careful and quick in your work. The total investment in materials is about $20 assuming you already have basic repair tools (I have yet to meet an LBC owner that doesn't have SOME tools).

See:
https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
Click to expand...

I used this method last year when the subject of repairing capillary gauges came up. It does require the purchase of a good capillary gauge in order to harvest the bulb of ether and tube. I've seen them in Pep Boys for $16-$20. The trickiest part of the operation is the splice joining the two tubes. They will most likely be of different diameters. You want to have that piece ready before you start the actual surgery. Other then that, the procedure is pretty simple.
 
Was just at the Portland ABFM, and 1 of the vender's had something I hadn't seen before. It was a radiator cap with a built in thermometer on it. He claims they are very accurate,more than the gauge,he says. Comes in different radiator pressures for different cars. I asked about 7lbs. but he didn't think so. Isn't that what the early 6's came with??

thermocapfront.jpg
 
That cap is a wonderful idea. Did they happen to mention how much they cost?
 
I got the picture of the jeggs site. Didn't even look at the price
 
Similar devices were popular back 70-90 years ago, when the radiator cap could be seen from the driver's seat. But now, why would you even open the hood/bonnet if you didn't already know there was a problem ?

And the gauge itself might be more accurate ... but if your problem is a stuck thermostat (or a broken fan belt or ...), it can still read cold even with the engine boiling.
 
Called Nisonger's this morning and was quoted $120. for a complete rebuild of the Temperature gauge. That's a lot better than the one on ebay at $162. and climbing. I had an extra gauge and will have sent that one. Doing it myself I thought was a little beyond me.
 
I'm not overly concerned with originality, when it comes to stuff like this. I have a temperature gauge from an early TR4, with a curved face, full-length needle, and very similar font to the TR3 gauge. Since I needed a full set of gauges anyway, I opted for a TR4 set because I didn't want to mess with the tube-type temperature gauge. I have a new sending unit (that fits into the same hole as the cap-tube unit) and will have to add a wire, and voltage stabilizer. I think most people will never notice how un-original it is. I'm thinking this will allow my gauge to be functional at a fraction of the cost.
 
TexasKnucklehead said:
I think most people will never notice how un-original it is. I'm thinking this will allow my gauge to be functional at a fraction of the cost.
Click to expand...
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif
Just a thought, though, you might want to check the calibration before you install it. Not a requirement of course, but lots of people (including me) have had issues with the electric temp gauges being off.

A pan of water (or oil if you want to go over 212F) and a candy thermometer on the kitchen stove is one way to check it. Be sure to let it stabilize for several minutes at each temperature, since the electric gauges are remarkably slow to respond. Several times now, I've seen the steam _before_ the needle gets to the red /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Hey Russ;

I would post that pic on the Calender Contest! That one is really neat!!

Regards, Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/winner1.gif
 
Russ,
When we got our TR6 the temp gauge ran at the very
bottom end, hardly moved at all. DPO Pedro said that
was because British cars usually run very cool because
of their large radiators.

I found out different, of course. I tried about everything
mentioned, even cooking it. I bought 2 new temp senders, a
new voltage regulator, a new sending wire and a new ground
wire. Nothing worked. gauge ran at the bottom.

I refuse to pay the highway robbery price for a reconditioned
Smith. I purchased a $70. aftermarket gauge, took it apart
and painted it to match my other gauges. Used my IR gun
and the new gauge is quite accurate.

I am happy with the aftermarket gauge.

d
 
The TR6 temp gauge is nothing compared to the TR3 one. A rebuilt one just sold on ebay for $286 (pig not included).

https://offer.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=270159582328

Next time you need something like that, let me know. I know a guy here in Houston that has lots of TR6 stuff. He sold me a TR6 transmission for $20 -that was taken apart, but complete. I only needed the counter shaft/1st/rev assy, but took the whole lot.
 
Received my Temperature gauge back from Nisonger's (very quick turn around) in one week. They quoted me $120. and that's what they charge me. Couldn't be happier!!! it looks brand new and the one on ebay sold for over $220.
PICT0023.jpg
 
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